Your First Bespoke Suit

Your First Bespoke Suit
How to Tell Your Tailor Exactly What You Need

Written by RJ Firchau
There is something–no, many things–to be said about a bespoke suit. A bespoke suit flatters every wearer, never goes out of style, and has the power all on its own to imbue a sense of confidence and prominence in even the meekest of gentlemen. When you don a bespoke suit, you will instantly feel like a king amongst men.

But no one ever said becoming king would be easy.

A unique, perfectly tailored suit is not an immediate thing. You cannot buy one off the racks. No, to get a perfect bespoke suit, you will have to work (with your tailor, of course) for it. And doing so means much more than just showing up to any old tailor down the street. Ask any sartorial pro, and he will tell you that your first visit to a tailor is akin to a rite of passage, much like your first date or your first car, so you’ll have to do it right. And by that, we mean, you’re gonna have to know how to talk to your tailor so you can create the perfect suit. Read on for advice on everything you’ll need to know so you can see eye-to-eye with your tailor, ask for exactly what it is that you want, and ultimately, get an awesome garment as a result.

Your First Bespoke Suit: How to Talk to Your Tailor

What Kind of Suit Do You Need?

First, ask yourself what the purpose of this suit is. Are you seeking out a bespoke suit for a wedding? A funeral? A court appearance? A new job? Or just because? Tell your tailor.

Study Up on Fabric

There are a lot of veritable suit fabrics out there waiting to be discovered. As overwhelming as that may sound, there are a few key fabrics you’ll want to stick to, especially for your first bespoke suit (which makes things a little easier). Your suit should be good for three seasons and be composed of a fabric lightweight enough that you won’t overheat but sturdy enough that you’ll also be comfortable if it’s a little chilly. Here are the best fabrics to look for:

Worsted Wool

Worsted wool is the most popular wool used for suits, as it is highly adaptable to temperature change, wears well, and gives off that slight shine that you find in most suits on the market. It is extremely versatile and great for solid-colored suits.Super

120s

This fabric is a bit more of a luxurious lightweight wool. It’s ideal for use in a three-season suit.

Mohair

This fabric is silky and a bit more textured than the first two options.

Flannel

Flannel is typically made out of worsted wool, and is similar to tweed and herringbone in terms of look, but tends to be softer to the touch. Most tailors will have a wide selection of colors and weights, meaning that you’ll most likely be able to find a nice, breathable flannel that you’ll be comfortable in during the spring and fall months.

Your First Bespoke Suit: How to Talk to Your Tailor

Two- Or Three-Piece?

Do you just care for the suit jacket and trousers, or would you like a matching vest to go with it? Traditionally, 2-piece suits are less formal (pictured above right), and 3-piece suits are more formal (pictured above left). 3-piece suits can be worn to high brow gatherings like weddings and dinner parties, will keep you warmer, and most importantly can become a 2-piece suit with ease (just remove the vest)! If you don’t need all the formality or live in a warmer climate, a standard 2-piece suit might be a better option. Plus, 2-piece suits are cheaper.

We recommend getting a 3-piece suit simply because it’s more versatile and can be worn with or without the vest. Again, it’s all up to you.

Learn the Lingo

When it comes to making a suit from scratch, there are a lot of nuanced details to consider. In these situations, it’s helpful if you know a little bit about your tailor’s profession so you can speak the same language when discussing your suit. Now, the language that a tailor speaks is vast, but here are a few words you should study up on to not only impress your tailor but be able to ask for and describe exactly what it is you’re looking for.

Lapel

The part on each side of your suit jacket immediately below the collar that is folded back on either side. Lapels can be notched (the most common style), peaked (lapels with “peaks” that point upward), or shawl (a continuous lapel without a notch or peak breaking the outer line).

Your First Bespoke Suit: How to Talk to Your Tailor

Cuff

The cuff is the optional bit of material on your suit pants that is folded up and pressed. Though cuffless is more popular, we love the cuff and would recommend getting one that is one and a half inches tall.

Vent

The slits at the back of your jacket. Vents allow for both a tailored fit and easy mobility. Center vents are traditional, whereas two side vents are a bit more modern and ultimately while making a jacket look more fitted.

Your First Bespoke Suit: How to Talk to Your Tailor

Pant Break

This term refers to how much of the bottom of the trousers meet the shoes. A medium/half break is the industry-standard and will result in just a little bit of foldover. If you want to err on the safe side, ask your tailor for a medium break. A full break offers at least one full fold or “break” over your shoes. A quarter break will just graze over the tops of your shoes. And finally, for the sartorially daring, trousers with no break will just meet the tops of your shoes. For your first suit, opt for a medium or quarter break.

Shoulders

Padding or spalla camicia? Do you want padded shoulders or shoulders without padding (spalla camicia). The former will create a broad appearance, while the latter will create a soft and natural transition from shoulder to arm. The latter is also more fashion-forward.

Taper

Basically, this means narrowing or gradually coming in (think of the opposite of bell bottoms). Having your jacket and trousers tapered slightly to fit your build is both more fashionable and more signature of bespoke.

Single- or Double-Breasted

Single-breasted suits have two or three buttons (pictured above left). Double-breasted jackets (pictured above right) have an outer row of functional buttons and an inner row of decorative buttons.

Your First Bespoke Suit: How to Talk to Your Tailor

Besom or Flap

Besom pockets are jacket pockets that are set into the jacket like a slit with a plain opening. Flap pockets are the exact same thing, except covered by flaps.

Working or Show Buttons

Show buttons are exactly as they sound–cuff buttons that are “just for show” and have no real functionality. Working buttons are functional, allow you to roll up your sleeves, and are indicative of a bespoke suit.

Side Tabs

Ditch the belt loops and opt for side tabs with a few buttons on the sides of your pants that will allow you to adjust your waist without needing to ever wear a belt. We like this look but keep in mind that to some it may carry some retro connotations.

Your First Bespoke Suit: How to Talk to Your Tailor

Interior Buttons

If you enjoy the nostalgia and old-school elegance of suspenders, consider getting interior buttons sewn into your trousers.

Inner Pockets

There are a plethora of inner pockets you can trick your suit out with. Ticket pockets are literally for tickets, and come in handy for never misplacing them when you’re seeing a show. Left and right inside pockets can be used for everything from money clips to iPads (however, if you’re gonna use them for an iPad, tell your tailor. He’ll customize the pocket size.). Finally, you’ll want to add a secret inner pocket somewhere for all those classified CIA files you’re carrying around (or, you know, like a passport or something).

Once you know these terms, you can make decisions such as besom or flap, medium break or none, and tapered or straight, and so on. All these little details will help your tailor understand what exactly it is that you’re looking for, down to the last button.

Now Find a Great Tailor

Your First Bespoke Suit: How to Talk to Your Tailor

Look for a tailor that, first and foremost, uses the term bespoke. Custom suits are great and all, but bespoke is better because the term signifies that that particular suit is made for and owned by exactly one man, and that the suit was hand-drawn and crafted based on exact specifications from the wearer’s body. If a tailor does bespoke suits, you’ll know that he or she is an expert at taking care and consideration to craft suits based on your body type, as opposed to altering a pre-made pattern to accommodate your size (also known as made-to-measure, or MTM). A bespoke suit will fit and be comfortable for you, will have as few or as many pockets and buttons as you desire, and will be crafted based on your wants and needs from start to finish. Bespoke, undoubtedly, is the way to go.

Other considerations to keep in mind when looking for the right tailor include consulting Google (Does he have good reviews? Bad reviews? No reviews?) and ultimately asking yourself if this person makes you feel comfortable.

Once you have gone through all of the above, you should further assess your potential tailor by first having alterations made on another garment of yours. Say, a pair of trousers or a blazer. Have an idea of what you’d like done, and if it’s done correctly, it should be a safe bet that you can move on to discussing a suit.

Other Noteworthy Tips

Bring Pictures

Visuals always help. If you’re a fan of the Savile Row style of Fred Astaire or appreciate the classy duds of George Clooney, find a picture of their suits that you wouldn’t mind emulating, and bring it in as inspiration for your tailor. If possible, try to explain what about this particular suit you like.

Honesty is the Best Policy

Don’t lie to your tailor. He isn’t there to judge you, he just wants to make a suit to fit your needs, whatever they may be. What occasion is this suit for? Be upfront about where the suit will be worn, and the frequency with which it will be worn. It may seem minor to you, but every little detail can be helpful in painting the big picture for him. So, tell him the circumstances, explain the kinds of people you work with, the temperature in your office, anything. At the very least, you’ll be building rapport with him, and a nice relationship with your tailor is tantamount.

Along the same lines, don’t feel pressure to act differently during your visit to the tailor. Just because you’re getting a suit does not mean you need to affect a certain degree of formality that you otherwise wouldn’t. If you don’t enjoy suits, or if this is your first time ever needing one, don’t be afraid to let him know.
Finally, don’t try to lie to the tape measure, either. Sucking in won’t fool anyone.

Get the Most Out of Your Fittings

Your First Bespoke Suit: How to Talk to Your Tailor

When you finally do go in for your fittings, dress up! Wear the shoes you would normally wear with a suit, as well as a dress shirt. You’ll want to see exactly how your trousers break on your shoes, and how the sleeves and collar look under your jacket.

Speak Up

As you are doing your fittings, do not be afraid to speak up. If something isn’t fitting the way you imagined, tell your tailor immediately so that he can address the problem. Don’t just be passive and assume that that’s the way it’s supposed to look or feel. Remember, you’re spending big bucks (we’re talking thousands, here) on this garment. If you don’t speak up, ask questions, or voice your concerns, the only person to blame if you’re not happy with the end result is yourself.

Be Patient

Getting your first suit made will take a decent amount of time and a nice handful of fittings (at least 2). Accept that you can’t rush this process, and look at the bright side: next time you go in for a bespoke suit, your tailor will have all your measurements and details on file so he can get to work right away.

And there you have it. Now that you’ve read up on all you need to know, you’re well-equipped with the knowledge required for obtaining a bespoke suit. Understanding how to talk to your tailor and knowing a little about all the nuances and details that go into the process of making a bespoke suit are essential for having a good experience. Take this newfound knowledge, go out there, and be the dapper king that you are. Oh, and remember: behind every great man is a great tailor. Don’t forget to thank yours for helping you put your best foot forward.

Your First Bespoke Suit

Your First Bespoke SuitHow to Tell Your Tailor Exactly What You Need

There is something–no, many things–to be said about a bespoke suit. A bespoke suit flatters every wearer, never goes out of style, and has the power all on its own to imbue a sense of confidence and prominence in even the meekest of gentlemen. When you don a bespoke suit, you will instantly feel like a king amongst men.

But no one ever said becoming king would be easy.

A unique, perfectly tailored suit is not an immediate thing. You cannot buy one off the racks. No, to get a perfect bespoke suit, you will have to work (with your tailor, of course) for it. And doing so means much more than just showing up to any old tailor down the street. Ask any sartorial pro, and he will tell you that your first visit to a tailor is akin to a rite of passage, much like your first date or your first car, so you’ll have to do it right. And by that, we mean, you’re gonna have to know how to talk to your tailor so you can create the perfect suit. Read on for advice on everything you’ll need to know so you can see eye-to-eye with your tailor, ask for exactly what it is that you want, and ultimately, get an awesome garment as a result.

Your First Bespoke Suit: How to Talk to Your Tailor

What Kind of Suit Do You Need?

First, ask yourself what the purpose of this suit is. Are you seeking out a bespoke suit for a wedding? A funeral? A court appearance? A new job? Or just because? Tell your tailor.

Study Up on Fabric

There are a lot of veritable suit fabrics out there waiting to be discovered. As overwhelming as that may sound, there are a few key fabrics you’ll want to stick to, especially for your first bespoke suit (which makes things a little easier). Your suit should be good for three seasons and be composed of a fabric lightweight enough that you won’t overheat but sturdy enough that you’ll also be comfortable if it’s a little chilly. Here are the best fabrics to look for:

Worsted Wool

Worsted wool is the most popular wool used for suits, as it is highly adaptable to temperature change, wears well, and gives off that slight shine that you find in most suits on the market. It is extremely versatile and great for solid-colored suits.Super

120s

This fabric is a bit more of a luxurious lightweight wool. It’s ideal for use in a three-season suit.

Mohair

This fabric is silky and a bit more textured than the first two options.

Flannel

Flannel is typically made out of worsted wool, and is similar to tweed and herringbone in terms of look, but tends to be softer to the touch. Most tailors will have a wide selection of colors and weights, meaning that you’ll most likely be able to find a nice, breathable flannel that you’ll be comfortable in during the spring and fall months.

Your First Bespoke Suit: How to Talk to Your Tailor

Two- Or Three-Piece?

Do you just care for the suit jacket and trousers, or would you like a matching vest to go with it? Traditionally, 2-piece suits are less formal (pictured above right), and 3-piece suits are more formal (pictured above left). 3-piece suits can be worn to high brow gatherings like weddings and dinner parties, will keep you warmer, and most importantly can become a 2-piece suit with ease (just remove the vest)! If you don’t need all the formality or live in a warmer climate, a standard 2-piece suit might be a better option. Plus, 2-piece suits are cheaper.

We recommend getting a 3-piece suit simply because it’s more versatile and can be worn with or without the vest. Again, it’s all up to you.

Learn the Lingo

When it comes to making a suit from scratch, there are a lot of nuanced details to consider. In these situations, it’s helpful if you know a little bit about your tailor’s profession so you can speak the same language when discussing your suit. Now, the language that a tailor speaks is vast, but here are a few words you should study up on to not only impress your tailor but be able to ask for and describe exactly what it is you’re looking for.

Lapel

The part on each side of your suit jacket immediately below the collar that is folded back on either side. Lapels can be notched (the most common style), peaked (lapels with “peaks” that point upward), or shawl (a continuous lapel without a notch or peak breaking the outer line).

Your First Bespoke Suit: How to Talk to Your Tailor

 

Cuff

The cuff is the optional bit of material on your suit pants that is folded up and pressed. Though cuffless is more popular, we love the cuff and would recommend getting one that is one and a half inches tall.

Vent

The slits at the back of your jacket. Vents allow for both a tailored fit and easy mobility. Center vents are traditional, whereas two side vents are a bit more modern and ultimately while making a jacket look more fitted.

Your First Bespoke Suit: How to Talk to Your Tailor

Pant Break

This term refers to how much of the bottom of the trousers meet the shoes. A medium/half break is the industry-standard and will result in just a little bit of foldover. If you want to err on the safe side, ask your tailor for a medium break. A full break offers at least one full fold or “break” over your shoes. A quarter break will just graze over the tops of your shoes. And finally, for the sartorially daring, trousers with no break will just meet the tops of your shoes. For your first suit, opt for a medium or quarter break.

Shoulders

Padding or spalla camicia? Do you want padded shoulders or shoulders without padding (spalla camicia). The former will create a broad appearance, while the latter will create a soft and natural transition from shoulder to arm. The latter is also more fashion-forward.

Taper

Basically, this means narrowing or gradually coming in (think of the opposite of bell bottoms). Having your jacket and trousers tapered slightly to fit your build is both more fashionable and more signature of bespoke.

Single- or Double-Breasted

Single-breasted suits have two or three buttons (pictured above left). Double-breasted jackets (pictured above right) have an outer row of functional buttons and an inner row of decorative buttons.

Your First Bespoke Suit: How to Talk to Your Tailor

 

Besom or Flap

Besom pockets are jacket pockets that are set into the jacket like a slit with a plain opening. Flap pockets are the exact same thing, except covered by flaps.

Working or Show Buttons

Show buttons are exactly as they sound–cuff buttons that are “just for show” and have no real functionality. Working buttons are functional, allow you to roll up your sleeves, and are indicative of a bespoke suit.

Side Tabs

Ditch the belt loops and opt for side tabs with a few buttons on the sides of your pants that will allow you to adjust your waist without needing to ever wear a belt. We like this look but keep in mind that to some it may carry some retro connotations.

Your First Bespoke Suit: How to Talk to Your Tailor

Interior Buttons

If you enjoy the nostalgia and old-school elegance of suspenders, consider getting interior buttons sewn into your trousers.

Inner Pockets

There are a plethora of inner pockets you can trick your suit out with. Ticket pockets are literally for tickets, and come in handy for never misplacing them when you’re seeing a show. Left and right inside pockets can be used for everything from money clips to iPads (however, if you’re gonna use them for an iPad, tell your tailor. He’ll customize the pocket size.). Finally, you’ll want to add a secret inner pocket somewhere for all those classified CIA files you’re carrying around (or, you know, like a passport or something).

Once you know these terms, you can make decisions such as besom or flap, medium break or none, and tapered or straight, and so on. All these little details will help your tailor understand what exactly it is that you’re looking for, down to the last button.

Now Find a Great Tailor

Your First Bespoke Suit: How to Talk to Your Tailor

Look for a tailor that, first and foremost, uses the term bespoke. Custom suits are great and all, but bespoke is better because the term signifies that that particular suit is made for and owned by exactly one man, and that the suit was hand-drawn and crafted based on exact specifications from the wearer’s body. If a tailor does bespoke suits, you’ll know that he or she is an expert at taking care and consideration to craft suits based on your body type, as opposed to altering a pre-made pattern to accommodate your size (also known as made-to-measure, or MTM). A bespoke suit will fit and be comfortable for you, will have as few or as many pockets and buttons as you desire, and will be crafted based on your wants and needs from start to finish. Bespoke, undoubtedly, is the way to go.

Other considerations to keep in mind when looking for the right tailor include consulting Google (Does he have good reviews? Bad reviews? No reviews?) and ultimately asking yourself if this person makes you feel comfortable.

Once you have gone through all of the above, you should further assess your potential tailor by first having alterations made on another garment of yours. Say, a pair of trousers or a blazer. Have an idea of what you’d like done, and if it’s done correctly, it should be a safe bet that you can move on to discussing a suit.

Other Noteworthy Tips

Bring Pictures

Visuals always help. If you’re a fan of the Savile Row style of Fred Astaire or appreciate the classy duds of George Clooney, find a picture of their suits that you wouldn’t mind emulating, and bring it in as inspiration for your tailor. If possible, try to explain what about this particular suit you like.

Honesty is the Best Policy

Don’t lie to your tailor. He isn’t there to judge you, he just wants to make a suit to fit your needs, whatever they may be. What occasion is this suit for? Be upfront about where the suit will be worn, and the frequency with which it will be worn. It may seem minor to you, but every little detail can be helpful in painting the big picture for him. So, tell him the circumstances, explain the kinds of people you work with, the temperature in your office, anything. At the very least, you’ll be building rapport with him, and a nice relationship with your tailor is tantamount.

Along the same lines, don’t feel pressure to act differently during your visit to the tailor. Just because you’re getting a suit does not mean you need to affect a certain degree of formality that you otherwise wouldn’t. If you don’t enjoy suits, or if this is your first time ever needing one, don’t be afraid to let him know.
Finally, don’t try to lie to the tape measure, either. Sucking in won’t fool anyone.

Get the Most Out of Your Fittings

Your First Bespoke Suit: How to Talk to Your Tailor

When you finally do go in for your fittings, dress up! Wear the shoes you would normally wear with a suit, as well as a dress shirt. You’ll want to see exactly how your trousers break on your shoes, and how the sleeves and collar look under your jacket.

Speak Up

As you are doing your fittings, do not be afraid to speak up. If something isn’t fitting the way you imagined, tell your tailor immediately so that he can address the problem. Don’t just be passive and assume that that’s the way it’s supposed to look or feel. Remember, you’re spending big bucks (we’re talking thousands, here) on this garment. If you don’t speak up, ask questions, or voice your concerns, the only person to blame if you’re not happy with the end result is yourself.

Be Patient

Getting your first suit made will take a decent amount of time and a nice handful of fittings (at least 2). Accept that you can’t rush this process, and look at the bright side: next time you go in for a bespoke suit, your tailor will have all your measurements and details on file so he can get to work right away.

And there you have it. Now that you’ve read up on all you need to know, you’re well-equipped with the knowledge required for obtaining a bespoke suit. Understanding how to talk to your tailor and knowing a little about all the nuances and details that go into the process of making a bespoke suit are essential for having a good experience. Take this newfound knowledge, go out there, and be the dapper king that you are. Oh, and remember: behind every great man is a great tailor. Don’t forget to thank yours for helping you put your best foot forward.

Even today, you can still tell a gentleman by his shoes

In the political classes, shoes can still point the way to a man’s moral character, writes Jemima Lewis.

Like many sages of her generation, my grandmother took the view that you could “tell a man by his shoes”. A scuffed shoe denoted a chap of chaotic domestic habits, probably best avoided. A well-worn but highly polished brogue, on the other hand, suggested a man both professional and practical, able to take care of the things he loved.

These days, when pretty much everyone, regardless of class or creed, wears dirty trainers, it can be harder to interpret the language of footwear. But in the political classes, at least, shoes can still point the way to a man’s moral character.

Consider the portrait of a young Silvio Berlusconi that was discovered this week. Posing in his office in 1977, the budding industrialist wears a fat tie, a suit so sharp you could butcher a songbird with it, and – most telling – a pair of exceedingly shiny, high-heeled boots. The 357 Magnum on top of his desk is really just a distraction. Everything you need to know about the future Italian PM – the vanity, the corruption, the call girls, the hair plugs – is right there on his feet.

Likewise, you don’t have to be Alan Turing to decipher the hidden message behind Michael Bloomberg’s loafers. The eighth richest man in America revealed this week that he only owns two pairs of work shoes. Both are unassuming black slip-ons, which he bought in 2002. “One day he’ll wear one, the next the other – and when they get worn down, he has them resoled,” Bloomberg’s spokesman confirmed. “He could buy any shoes he wanted, but he likes these.”

In other words, he may be worth $18 billion and in charge of the consumer capital of the world, but Bloomberg still has his feet on the ground. A man who stays true to his old shoes in the face of such temptation must, we feel, be morally sturdy – as if sartorial fidelity betokened a more general capacity for loyalty. Granny would have approved.

Political women are judged by more than just their shoes. Hillary Clinton appeared at the UN General Assembly this week with the front section of her hair pulled back in a clip, provoking consternation among fashion pundits and leader writers alike.

Was it wise to give a speech questioning the legitimacy of Iran’s President Ahmadinejad while, in the words of one newspaper, sporting hair that “looked lank and in need of love”? I’m no expert on foreign diplomacy, but I rather like her ‘do. Most women in American public life tease and spray their hair into such rigid helmets that they look more like Lego characters than flesh and blood. Something a little softer, less styled – more human – might do wonders for geopolitical relations.

It must be horrible being a 5ft 10in teenage girl, so my sympathies go out to Sherry Austen. The 14‑year-old has been threatened with expulsion because she can’t find a skirt long enough to meet uniform regulations.

At St Aidan’s High in Harrogate, meanwhile, all girls under 15 have been ordered to wear trousers, on the grounds that some were putting themselves “at risk” with their short hemlines.

Leaving aside the dubious sexual politics of making girls feel responsible for men’s uncontrollable lusts, there is something to be said for a Taliban-lite policy on school uniforms. Rules are there to be broken, and the more there are, the easier it is to rebel. At my convent school we had to wear standard-issue knickers, a skirt that stopped exactly one inch above the knee, and three different types of shoe, depending on which part of the building we were in.

For the first and only time in my life I became known as something of a wild child, by the simple expedient of wearing plimsolls in the corridor. It was a short-lived rebellion (I decided to mend my ways after being suspended for chewing bubble gum), and a mercifully mild one – for which I am grateful to those wise, despotic nuns.

Big, Tall & Stocky Bespoke suits and shirts in Washington D.C.

 

 

 

 

 

Big, Tall & Stocky Bespoke suits and shirts in Washington D.C.

Every guy should have a few good suits in his clothing arsenal. The problem, as a big man, can be finding a suit that has style and complements your body. You can always find a local suit shop, but their selection may be limited and their prices more than you want to spend for something you might not wear that often. Luckily, there’s an affordable yet stylish option available In D.C. metro area. Book online  your appointment with our clothing company that specializes in custom men’s suits in Washington D.C. metro area.

Customization is especially attractive to those with distinctive body types. Tall men won’t have any problems with short sleeves or pants that don’t fit. Chubby men, on the other hand, can have suits made to make them look thinner and more attractive. All these little perks definitely override buying a popular brand name.

PERSONALIZE IT

The beauty of a tailored suit is that you can add personal touches to make your suit look genuine and unique.

Whether it’s specific types of buttons or pockets just ask and you shall receive.

These simple touches will impress your colleagues and really make your suit stand out from the rest.

BODY FORM

We make a detailed record of your body form which assists our cutter to take shoulders and standing position into consideration.

You Choose the Styles and Cut – Traditional, Contemporary, and European.

HAND STITCHED

Hand-stitched suits simply scream quality.

One look at the inside of the jacket and even a novice can see that’s this is one special suit. Measured and cut by a master tailor who then hand stitches the suit.

A suit made entirely by hand.

Any machine stitching is for reinforcement only +A hand-made full floating canvas which is the hallmark of any true custom made suit.

This will give the suit added shape and durability.

When a suit jacket fits right, it turns all your soft, round lines into sharp, angular ones.

  1. Get a jacket that hugs your shoulders, then have a tailor pinch it in at the middle of your torso. That’s what turns your round midsection into a powerful-looking V.
  2. Just because you need a broad jacket doesn’t mean you need a long one. It should just barely cover your butt.

Clothes for Tall Men: Your Style Goals

Stocky or slim, every tall man shares a few basic needs with his fellow giants. He wants to avoid looming, which makes other people feel awkward and can make him appear ungainly or foolish — but he does not want to seem as if he has something to hide, or is ashamed of his height.

He needs clothing that can make an impression powerful enough to outweigh the automatic “gosh, you’re tall” reaction — but avoids calling excess attention to a presence that already draws the eye. And even more than smaller men, he needs clothing that will balance his frame and fit his body — really fit, not just be long enough in the sleeves.

Before considering specific body types, all tall men will want to keep the following wardrobe basics in mind:

Horizontal Elements

Even a very broad man in the 6’4″-and-up neighborhood is fundamentally a vertical shape to most people, whose eyes have to travel up to take him in. Clothing that incorporates horizontal lines will break the instinctive up-and-down gaze.

Broad belts, checked fabrics, horizontally-oriented pockets, and even a hat with a distinctive band can break the vertical lines of your body at various points, making a more manageable view for the smaller world.

Different tall men will want to work their horizontal touches in at different points to best flatter their body, but purely vertical touches — pinstripes, narrow ties, etc. — flatter no tall men.

Patterns and Colors, the Tall Man’s Friend

Tall men don’t have to work to stand out, but they do have to work to be remembered as something other than “that tall guy.” A distinctive personal style makes all the difference, so don’t be shy about wearing mixed patterns or unusual colors. Size is a luxury; patterns which would overwhelm a smaller man look appropriate on your room-filling presence.

Take advantage by experimenting with more unusual combinations. The only thing to avoid is unnecessary boldness, either in aggressive patterns or bright colors — everyone is going to look at you first no matter what you wear, so try to be memorable rather than attention-getting.

Something as simple as an understated herringbone weave in your wardrobe-staple white dress shirt can turn a tall man from a monolith into a memory.

The most difficult areas to fit well are perhaps the shoulders and collar. A properly fitting jacket shouldn’t have any indentations in the sleeveheads and it should stay glued to your neck at all times.

Here tightness at the buttoning point can result in a jacket pulling around the waist, effectively forming an “X.“ To be sure, this is sometimes purposefully done in the name of fashion, but more often than not, it’s a sign that a jacket is too tight. (Note that the jacket pictured here doesn’t have problems in this area).

Everything is wrong with P  Daddy suit back in the 90’s, Please don’t wear a suit like this under any circumstance.

BUY HANDMADE SHIRTS OR CUSTOM SUITS FOR MEN & WOMAN IN WASHINGTON DC, BALTIMORE, MD
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Our tailors will fit, measure and deliver your garments in the comfort of your home or office. Schedule a fitting today
(202) 390-3996
We will travel to your location in Washington metropolitan area, Maryland, Pennsylvania, Delaware, Virginia, New York, New Jersey.
Showroom: 1875 K St NW, Washington, DC 20006

Custom Dress Shirts, Tailored & Bespoke Shirts, Washington D.C. Area

 

 

#2. Light Blue, semi-spread, light to mid-weight Poplin/Pinpoint/Twill

 

Custom Dress Shirts, Tailored & Bespoke Shirts, Washington D.C., Maryland, Virginia.

 

From collar width to cuff style, you can customize almost every aspect of your dress shirt in Washington D.C. metro area.
FABRIC: 

Hundreds of fabric options are available. All of our custom dress shirts are made from 100% fine cotton, Silk, Egyptian Cotton, Pyma Cotton, Italian Cotton, etc. We source our premium fabrics from some of the finest shirting mills around the world, which means your shirt will feel soft, wear beautifully and look like a million bucks.
COLLAR: 

BUY HANDMADE SHIRTS OR CUSTOM SUITS FOR MEN & WOMAN IN WASHINGTON DC, BALTIMORE, MD By Appointment Only Our tailors will fit, measure and deliver your garments in the comfort of your home or office. Schedule a fitting today (202) 390-3996 We will travel to your location in Washington metropolitan area, Maryland, Pennsylvania, Delaware, Virginia, New York, New Jersey. Showroom: 1875 K St NW, Washington, DC 20006

Choose from five different styles, each carefully constructed to hold up to repeated laundering. Collars are cut slightly large to allow for natural shrinkage.
PLACKET: 

BUY HANDMADE SHIRTS OR CUSTOM SUITS FOR MEN & WOMAN IN WASHINGTON DC, BALTIMORE, MD By Appointment Only Our tailors will fit, measure and deliver your garments in the comfort of your home or office. Schedule a fitting today (202) 390-3996 We will travel to your location in Washington metropolitan area, Maryland, Pennsylvania, Delaware, Virginia, New York, New Jersey. Showroom: 1875 K St NW, Washington, DC 20006

Choose from four placket styles: French, hidden, Italian, and raised.
 
POCKET: 

We offer the option of a rounded, square, pleated, western, flapped pocket or no pocket at all.
CUFFS: 

BUY HANDMADE SHIRTS OR CUSTOM SUITS FOR MEN & WOMAN IN WASHINGTON DC, BALTIMORE, MD By Appointment Only Our tailors will fit, measure and deliver your garments in the comfort of your home or office. Schedule a fitting today (202) 390-3996 We will travel to your location in Washington metropolitan area, Maryland, Pennsylvania, Delaware, Virginia, New York, New Jersey. Showroom: 1875 K St NW, Washington, DC 20006

We offer ten different cuff styles: single-button barrel, single-button mitered and rounded French, etc.

A great tailored shirt is an important part of any wardrobe. We offer custom shirts in sizes and styles including men’s tailored dress shirts, big and tall tailored dress shirts, women’s tailored dress shirts and petite tailored shirts. Our tailored shirt is available in a variety of natural fabrics and colors that look fabulous with or without a jacket.

BUY HANDMADE SHIRTS OR CUSTOM SUITS FOR MEN & WOMAN IN WASHINGTON DC, BALTIMORE, MD
By Appointment Only
Our tailors will fit, measure and deliver your garments in the comfort of your home or office. Schedule a fitting today
(202) 390-3996
We will travel to your location in Washington metropolitan area, Maryland, Pennsylvania, Delaware, Virginia, New York, New Jersey.
Showroom: 1875 K St NW, Washington, DC 20006

Custom Dress Shirts in D.C.

 

#3. White, mid-weight to heavy-weight Oxford Cloth Button Down Collar

 

Custom Dress Shirts in D.C.

Custom dress shirt in D.C. Fine quality shirting fabric begins from cotton. Cotton that comes from various countries, from around the world. Such as Egypt, the Sea Islands, South and North America. We source out our fabric, from different fabric mills from around the world. The raw cotton is spun into yarn and is then woven into fabric for shirts. Our men’s shirting fabrics are two-ply otherwise noted, meaning that two yarns have been twisted around one another to create a composite yarn for greater luxurious durability. The yarn will resists the normal tendency to shed or pill this way. Types of fabrics 100’s/120’s/140’s/160’s/170’s measures the thickness of the fabric. It is also a way to to measure the fabric quality.

Single Needle Stitching for our custom shirt sleeves.
Our sleeve: connection to the custom dress shirt body has double row stitch.
Our collars: custom men dress shirts are hand cut individually designed to your personal taste.
Sleeve cuffs: for our custom men shirts are hand cut and hand turned.
Shirts Tails: are always full in length, so that they don?t pop out.
Pockets: for our custom shirts are all hand cut and hand matched to the fabric pattern.
Buttons: Extra Thick Real Mother of Pearl Buttons or regular durable plastic shirt buttons are available.

Contrasting cross stitch thread color is another option, for your custom made shirts. We understand how Important options are, that is why we want to give to our customers exactly what they need, no what they have to take in retail stores.

 

BUY HANDMADE SHIRTS OR CUSTOM SUITS FOR MEN IN WASHINGTON DC, BALTIMORE, MD By Appointment Only Our tailors will fit, measure and deliver your garments in the comfort of your home or office. Schedule a fitting today (202) 390-3996 We will travel to your location in Washington metropolitan area, Maryland, Pennsylvania, Delaware, Virginia, New York, New Jersey. Showroom: 1875 K St NW, Washington, DC 20006

To order a custom handmade shirt :

1. You can directly order our shirts online.
2. You can send us a dress shirt that was custom made and we will take the measurements from that.
3. You can call or send us your stock dress shirt size and we will contact you to discuss shirt details

.Mario Rojas Menswear Premium custom Shirts Design your perfect custom Shirts Shirts starting from $125

BUY HANDMADE SHIRTS OR CUSTOM SUITS FOR MEN IN WASHINGTON DC, BALTIMORE, MD
By Appointment Only
Our tailors will fit, measure and deliver your garments in the comfort of your home or office. Schedule a fitting today
(202) 390-3996
We will travel to your location in Washington metropolitan area, Maryland, Pennsylvania, Delaware, Virginia, New York, New Jersey.
Showroom: 1875 K St NW, Washington, DC 20006

The Top 10 Dress Shirts To Own

The Top 10 Dress Shirts To Own July 17, 2013 By Joe | Heads up: Buying via our links may result in us getting a commission. Here's why. When assembling your wardrobe, what styles of shirts are best to buy first? What shirts can you do without? That’s what this list is for. The shirts you’ll want to have on hand at all times (and maybe buy multiples of) will rank higher than the shirts you could probably do without. Also, keep those collars a substantial but not over-sized semi-spread. Button down, cutaway, and tiny-sized collars are great for certain situations, but you just can’t go wrong with a nicely sized semi spread. Specific examples for each are shown below. Pics are clickable.

When assembling your wardrobe, what styles of shirts are best to buy first? What shirts can you do without?

When assembling your wardrobe, what styles of shirts are best to buy first? What shirts can you do without? That’s what this list is for. The shirts you’ll want to have on hand at all times (and maybe buy multiples of) will rank higher than the shirts you could probably do without. Also, keep those collars a substantial but not over-sized semi-spread. Button down, cutaway, and tiny-sized collars are great for certain situations, but you just can’t go wrong with a nicely sized semi spread. Specific examples for each are shown below. Pics are clickable.

#1.  White, semi-spread, light to mid-weight Poplin/Pinpoint/Twill

#1. White, semi-spread, light to mid-weight Poplin/Pinpoint/Twill

Quick, think of a white dress shirt.  Yahtzee.  That’s the #1 shirt we should all have in our closet.  The collardoes not button down on these, and they’re made from a mid to lightweight fabric.  Some call these “oxfords” even though that’s not quite right. It’s a shirt that’ll look just as good with a suit as it will under a v-neck with jeans.  It’s crisp, it’s clean, and you want a collar with enough beef  to look substantial. Melt your brain with the differences between poplin, pinpoint, & twill.

#2. Light Blue, semi-spread, light to mid-weight Poplin/Pinpoint/Twill

#2. Light Blue, semi-spread, light to mid-weight Poplin/Pinpoint/Twill

Pretty much the same thing as the white dress shirt at #1, only in a very pale, light blue color.  Not royal blue, not kinda light blue with grey buttons, light blue with standard off-white/bone colored buttons.  Slightly less formal than white, but still able to be dressed way up. It’s actually somewhat difficult to find a very pale blue dress shirt for a reasonable price. The Banana Republic option shown here doesn’t even come in Neck & Sleeve measurements.

#3. White, mid-weight to heavy-weight Oxford Cloth Button Down Collar

Honestly? Not a “dress” shirt. At least not most of them, especially if they’re cut in thicker, more rumpled cloth. But still needs to go on the list just because of its versatility. The OCBD (surprisingly, not a member of WuTang) stands for Oxford Cloth Button Down. And the “button down” part refers to the collar, not the fact that you button the shirt in front. A few lighter, pressed OCBDs can pull some duty at the office, but just make sure it’s not that much thicker than a standard poplin. The thicker the fabric, the less dressed up it can get. A workhorse for layering.

Honestly? Not a “dress” shirt. At least not most of them, especially if they’re cut in thicker, more rumpled cloth. But still needs to go on the list just because of its versatility. The OCBD (surprisingly, not  a member of WuTang) stands for Oxford Cloth Button Down.  And the “button down” part refers to the collar, not the fact that you button the shirt in front. A few lighter, pressed OCBDs can pull some duty at the office, but just make sure it’s not that much thicker than a standard poplin. The thicker the fabric, the less dressed up it can get. A workhorse for layering.

#4. White base, blue windowpane / tattersall

#4. White base, blue windowpane / tattersall

Lots of white and blue right?  Well, yes. An orange and green check just won’t go with as much stuff in your closet.  Meanwhile, a windowpane is just different enough from the usual striped shirts most guys default to.  When under a jacket of some kind, they’ll give your look a bit of depth.  And unlike gingham (we’re getting there) they’ve got plenty of white which is more business ready.  When it comes to the office, for patterns, Tic-Tac-Toe > Checkers.  And for the size of the squares, the ideal size is between a pencil eraser and a quarter.

#5. The Bold Gingham

Color is up to you.  Black and white obviously offers the most contrast, but deep blue, red, even purple can deliver.  It’s a dressed up version of a dressed down pattern.

#6. White base, thin stripe

#6. White base, thin stripe

The stripes on these are razor thin. Not a double stripe of different colors (say, a light blue and dark blue next to each other), but just one color, real thin, evenly spaced. That white base is dominant, but the stripes add a bit of depth. Clean and mean.  Thicker striped ties look just fine worn over these.  Keep your stripes slim and you can even take some color risks like a pink or light green.

#7. The micro  pattern

Whether it’s a tiny check, tattersall, micro-plaid, gingham, or houndstooth, these are shirts that have two (three max) colors going on with a very small pattern. Not stripes, but something more geometric. From a distance they look solid, but up close they’re not. Lots of visual depth with these, and they often look great when you wear a suit without a tie.

#8. Thick/Bengal stripe

#8. Thick/Bengal stripe

#9. The Pink or Red Subtle Patterned Shirt

Pretty sure we’re all past the pink = YOU PLAY BALL LIKE A GIRL thing. Beware though. Some of us whiter dudes might not look so great wearing solid pink.  Lil’ too close to the skin tone.  So, harken back to #7, and maybe opt for a red micro-check on white. That’s not a  bad option for a similar look. It helps make the pink look less like flushed flesh.

#10. The Grey

A grey shirt with collar stay slots (not a floppy collared chambray) is a good shirt to have on hand for under black sweaters or black sportcoats/blazers.  Works surprisingly well with a navy suit as well. Not a bad getup to wear when grabbing a cocktail post sunset.  It’s still put together, has an evening out feel to it, but it’s thankfully still very far from clubby when tucked in and layered over.

Final Notes

  • 2 is the magic number:  Less is more.  Two is sort of the speed limit when it comes to dress shirts.  Meaning:  Anything more than two colors or two different thicknesses of lines in a pattern on a shirt and things can get weird.  There are exceptions, but solids, and pattern shirts with just one color on a base are safest.
  • Try and stick with all cotton:  Prices are rising (evidence is up above…) but limiting the level of poly used in your dress shirts will keep you cooler.  Sometimes synthetic just can’t be avoided, like in the shirts from Target.
  • Neck and Sleeve = More dressed up:  Sometimes a S/M/L/ neck will fit.  Sometimes it won’t.  Try it on.
  • No-Iron is up to you:  Some people love wrinkle free.  Some hate it.  Up to you.
  • Collar Stays:  Always.  Unless it’s a button down collar.  Wurkin Stiffs are even better.

BUY HANDMADE SHIRTS OR CUSTOM SUITS FOR MEN IN WASHINGTON DC, BALTIMORE, MD
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Our tailors will fit, measure and deliver your garments in the comfort of your home or office. Schedule a fitting today
(202) 390-3996
We will travel to your location in Washington metropolitan area, Maryland, Pennsylvania, Delaware, Virginia, New York, New Jersey.
Showroom: 1875 K St NW, Washington, DC 20006

GET COMFORTABLE SPEAKING IN FRONT OF GROUPS

GET COMFORTABLE SPEAKING IN FRONT OF GROUPS
GET COMFORTABLE SPEAKING IN FRONT OF GROUPS

GET COMFORTABLE SPEAKING IN FRONT OF GROUPS

Most white collar jobs will require you, at one point or another, to get in front of a group of people and present information or ideas. Even if your professional life never calls for public speaking, your personal life very well might (best man speech, anyone?).

It’s no secret that most people don’t like public speaking. In fact, it’s our number one fear. This natural fear is exacerbated if you are insecure about your physical appearance. After all, when you’re in the spotlight, it’s all eyes on you.

But fear not! Just like talking to women, anyone can get good at public speaking with practice. It’s a numbers game.

The best way to get over the fear of speaking in front of groups and hone your presentation skills is to join Toast Masters. There are plenty of classes, seminars, books, online courses that promise to turn you into a great speaker, but Toast Masters is tried and true.

I’ve seen it work in my own life and the lives of others. Toast Masters provides a comfortable environment in which to practice your speaking skills in front of a receptive, supportive and encouraging group of like-minded people.

With multiple groups in every city and town, it’s totally convenient, and it’s very inexpensive. Even if you are comfortable with your presentation skills, I guarantee TM will help you iron out any problems with your, uh, delivery.

BUY HANDMADE SHIRTS OR CUSTOM SUITS FOR MEN IN WASHINGTON DC, BALTIMORE, MD
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Our tailors will fit, measure and deliver your garments in the comfort of your home or office. Schedule a fitting today
(202) 390-3996
We will travel to your location in Washington metropolitan area, Maryland, Pennsylvania, Delaware, Virginia, New York, New Jersey.
Showroom: 1875 K St NW, Washington, DC 20006

 

BE THE BEST DRESSED MAN IN THE ROOM

Your clothes are always working. They’re either working for you or against you, but they’re always working.”

 

BE THE BEST DRESSED MAN IN THE ROOM

Readers of The Distilled Man are ahead of the curve when it comes to style, but most men in their 20’s and 30’s still have room to improve. In particular, men who want to feel and appear more masculine, can really use clothing to their advantage.

Before a woman notices your haircut, muscles (or lack thereof), smile, height, etc., she notices your outfit. It’s like my father told me:

Your clothes are always working. They’re either working for you or against you, but they’re alwaysworking.”

Gentlemen, I implore you: Make your clothes work for you.

If you know you could be dressing better, don’t worry. There are so many great resources available for those who want to step up their style, and many of them are right here on this website. Here are some great starting points:

Timeless style tips from The Refined Gent

Why you should care about your appearance

Alterations 101: How to make jackets, pants and shirts fit better

The Getup: Outfit ideas for every occasion

Learn how clothes should fit

Always remember that fit trumps everything other aspect of style. Stay away from trends, and don’t buy anything based on brand. If you want advice or feedback on specific outfits, reach out to the Style Forum, Male Fashion Advice (Reddit), Dappered and Art of Manliness communities.

And you know what’s awesome about more confidence? It begets even more confidence.

You don’t have to tackle all of these things at once. Pick an area that you are interested or particularly weak in, and go after it like there’s no tomorrow.

Always remember: there are plenty of things in life that you can’t control—your height, your thinning hair, your IQ—and there’s no point in dwelling on these things. If you want to be manly and interesting and attractive, focus on what you can control.

And start right now.

BUY HANDMADE SHIRTS OR CUSTOM SUITS FOR MEN IN WASHINGTON DC, BALTIMORE, MD
By Appointment Only
Our tailors will fit, measure and deliver your garments in the comfort of your home or office. Schedule a fitting today
(202) 390-3996
We will travel to your location in Washington metropolitan area, Maryland, Pennsylvania, Delaware, Virginia, New York, New Jersey.
Showroom: 1875 K St NW, Washington, DC 20006

 

6 REASONS TO CONSIDER CUSTOM CLOTHING

 

“We’re one of the only places you can get a suit that’s made entirely by hand in Washington D.C.”.

Times have changed, technology has catapulted us forward, and wearing a monocle is no longer a prerequisite to wearing clothes that fit.

1. You’re not average! 

Some guys have a big chest and small waist, others have a normal chest measurement with hulking shoulders and arms, and another group is under muscled with a big belly.

When all of these variations are factored in, manufacturer’s opt to produce a garment that’s shaped like a garbage bag that can be draped over most or all physiques.

Hard to fit? Not a problem. We have experience fitting clients of all sizes and body types. The most important aspect is understanding the body contour even before taking the measurements. Every client’s body frame is unique and we do our best to fit each one well.

2. No one is perfect

Every client’s body frame is unique and we do our best to fit each one well.

3. You’re in control

Almost every detail of the pants can be customized to fit your taste. Your pants can be made with any type of pleat — single, double, triple, box, inverted — or with no pleats at all. The trousers can receive normal side pockets, Italian pockets, western pockets, deep pockets, or even specialty pocket-watch pockets, secrets pockets. The trousers can also be fully-lined, half-lined, or unlined, and they can be equipped with a hugger waistband. We can also design tuxedo trousers, Shorts, Golf Pants, etc.

When you go custom, not only are you in control of the fit, you can also choose many of the features and details.

Some common choices are:

Collar style (standard point, spread, button down, etc.)
Cuff style (french, single or double button barrel, etc.)
Button color and material
Contrast lining (inside cuffs, collar, or button placket)
Pocket or no pocket
Pleats (side, center, or none)
Placket style
Monogram
And those are just some of the stylistic choices for shirts!

You still have to consider all of the options that you can play around with when you get into jackets and pants.

So you really can make your clothing your very own.

4. It’s an experience

Commissioning a bespoke suit is a luxury experience. Each suit is unique to the client, created over sixty hours of handcraft tailoring.

Consult
Mario meets with you, at the luxury of your own schedule, in your home or office.
We will travel to your location or you can come to our Showroom in D.C.
1. Schedule a consultation
2. Get measurements taken
3. Design your wardrobe
First fitting
You will try on the garments and our tailor will fit them exactly to your and our expectations. We do a number of quality checks along the way to make sure it’s made to spec.
Final fitting
We use all the custom-tailoring techniques with no shortcuts. And since your clothing is tailored in our workshop, you are assured a garment that fits and feels great!
Delivery
We deliver the final product to your door. You will receive finished items on average within 3-4 weeks.
5. but where should I buy?
Mario Sartorial has years of experience working with an array of men in various professional industries. At Mario Sartorial, you’ll not only get the perfect suit to fit your lifestyle, but you’ll also greatly benefit from our knowledge and expertise.
By Appointment Only
Our tailors will fit, measure and deliver your garments in the comfort of your home or office. Schedule a fitting today
(202) 390-3996
We will travel to your location in Washington metropolitan area, Maryland, Pennsylvania, Delaware, Virginia, New York, New Jersey.
Showroom: 1875 K St NW, Washington, DC 20006
6. Tailoring has its limits
 
It sounds reasonable enough to assume that you could take just about any garment to a tailor and have them make it work for you.
 
But let’s consider pants as an example.
 
If you have unbelievably massive quads and need to buy a 38-inch waist even though you wear a 32, you might think that you can just buy the pants and have the waist altered.
 
While it is possible, certain details would end up unacceptably skewed.
 
Think about the back pockets. If you take in too much material at the seat seam, you’re back pockets will end up “kissing” in the center.
 
If you take material from the outseam, your back pockets will be creeping too close to the front pockets.
 
The same is true for jackets. If you need to have the waist taken in dramatically because your chest is so large, the front pockets will end up near your sides by the time you get a proper fit.
 
So for these cases, it’s best to have the item built correctly in the first place, rather than spending a fortune on a poorly adapted alternative. 
https://youtu.be/kNkBHoHWWXA
BUY HANDMADE SHIRTS OR CUSTOM SUITS FOR MEN IN WASHINGTON DC, BALTIMORE, MD
By Appointment Only
Our tailors will fit, measure and deliver your garments in the comfort of your home or office. Schedule a fitting today
(202) 390-3996
We will travel to your location in Washington metropolitan area, Maryland, Pennsylvania, Delaware, Virginia, New York, New Jersey.
Showroom: 1875 K St NW, Washington, DC 20006