The Ultimate Autumnal Jacketing. THE ALPACA

SHERRY ALPACA

Luxury Wool with Alpaca and Silk. The Ultimate Autumnal Jacketing

SHERRY ALPACA
Luxury Wool with Alpaca and Silk. The Ultimate Autumnal Jacketing

Inspired by colour, this collection of jacketing fabrics has been exclusively designed by Holland & Sherry.

Wool, alpaca and silk have been intimately blended and woven together in a 2/2 twill construction, producing a luxury collection that has a unique handle, is full bodied and has beautiful drape qualities.

Much consideration has been given to the colours used in this collection as colour plays an important role in our daily lives. Unbeknown to us the colours we and others wear have a huge effect on our subconscious; colour determines our mood, our behaviour, and our perception of others. The colours in this collection have been selected because we believe they have an uplifting and more positive effect on our general mood and wellbeing, making the fabrics in the collection all the more enjoyable to wear.

The cloths in this collection have been co-ordinated with a selection of coloured plains, providing the option of a city or more casual, country look.

 

THE ALPACA

Larger than a vicuña but smaller than a llama, alpacas have been bred for thousands of years for their luxurious soft fleece. They are kept in herds grazing high in the Andes of southern Peru, western Bolivia, Ecuador and northern Chile.

Alpaca fibres are…

  • Are light in weight and full of lustre – natural sheen.
  • Contain microscopic pockets of air that act as a good insulator of heat in cold weather, but also allow the body to breathe thus keeping the body cool in warm weather.
  • Contain air pockets which also reduce the overall weight of the fibre, making it less bulky than wool that is shorn from a sheep.
  • Are soft, silky and luxurious to touch, making them very comfortable to wear.
  • Are beautiful to work with. Garments made from alpaca tailor with ease and have magnificent drape qualities.

LUXURY WOOL WITH ALPACA AND SILK Inspired by colour, this collection of jacketing fabrics has been exclusively designed by Holland & Sherry. Wool, alpaca and silk have been intimately blended and woven together in a 2/2 twill construction, producing a luxury collection that has a unique handle, is full bodied and has beautiful drape qualities. The cloths in this collection have been co-ordinated with a selection of coloured plains, providing the option of a city or more casual, country look.

BUY HANDMADE SHIRTS OR CUSTOM SUITS FOR MEN IN WASHINGTON DC, BALTIMORE, MD
By Appointment Only
Our tailors will fit, measure and deliver your garments in the comfort of your home or office. Schedule a fitting today
(202) 390-3996
We will travel to your location in Washington metropolitan area, Maryland, Pennsylvania, Delaware, Virginia, New York, New Jersey.
Showroom: 1875 K St NW, Washington, DC 20006

 

Custom Dress Shirts in D.C.

 

#3. White, mid-weight to heavy-weight Oxford Cloth Button Down Collar

 

Custom Dress Shirts in D.C.

Custom dress shirt in D.C. Fine quality shirting fabric begins from cotton. Cotton that comes from various countries, from around the world. Such as Egypt, the Sea Islands, South and North America. We source out our fabric, from different fabric mills from around the world. The raw cotton is spun into yarn and is then woven into fabric for shirts. Our men’s shirting fabrics are two-ply otherwise noted, meaning that two yarns have been twisted around one another to create a composite yarn for greater luxurious durability. The yarn will resists the normal tendency to shed or pill this way. Types of fabrics 100’s/120’s/140’s/160’s/170’s measures the thickness of the fabric. It is also a way to to measure the fabric quality.

Single Needle Stitching for our custom shirt sleeves.
Our sleeve: connection to the custom dress shirt body has double row stitch.
Our collars: custom men dress shirts are hand cut individually designed to your personal taste.
Sleeve cuffs: for our custom men shirts are hand cut and hand turned.
Shirts Tails: are always full in length, so that they don?t pop out.
Pockets: for our custom shirts are all hand cut and hand matched to the fabric pattern.
Buttons: Extra Thick Real Mother of Pearl Buttons or regular durable plastic shirt buttons are available.

Contrasting cross stitch thread color is another option, for your custom made shirts. We understand how Important options are, that is why we want to give to our customers exactly what they need, no what they have to take in retail stores.

 

BUY HANDMADE SHIRTS OR CUSTOM SUITS FOR MEN IN WASHINGTON DC, BALTIMORE, MD By Appointment Only Our tailors will fit, measure and deliver your garments in the comfort of your home or office. Schedule a fitting today (202) 390-3996 We will travel to your location in Washington metropolitan area, Maryland, Pennsylvania, Delaware, Virginia, New York, New Jersey. Showroom: 1875 K St NW, Washington, DC 20006

To order a custom handmade shirt :

1. You can directly order our shirts online.
2. You can send us a dress shirt that was custom made and we will take the measurements from that.
3. You can call or send us your stock dress shirt size and we will contact you to discuss shirt details

.Mario Rojas Menswear Premium custom Shirts Design your perfect custom Shirts Shirts starting from $125

BUY HANDMADE SHIRTS OR CUSTOM SUITS FOR MEN IN WASHINGTON DC, BALTIMORE, MD
By Appointment Only
Our tailors will fit, measure and deliver your garments in the comfort of your home or office. Schedule a fitting today
(202) 390-3996
We will travel to your location in Washington metropolitan area, Maryland, Pennsylvania, Delaware, Virginia, New York, New Jersey.
Showroom: 1875 K St NW, Washington, DC 20006

6 REASONS TO CONSIDER CUSTOM CLOTHING

 

“We’re one of the only places you can get a suit that’s made entirely by hand in Washington D.C.”.

Times have changed, technology has catapulted us forward, and wearing a monocle is no longer a prerequisite to wearing clothes that fit.

1. You’re not average! 

Some guys have a big chest and small waist, others have a normal chest measurement with hulking shoulders and arms, and another group is under muscled with a big belly.

When all of these variations are factored in, manufacturer’s opt to produce a garment that’s shaped like a garbage bag that can be draped over most or all physiques.

Hard to fit? Not a problem. We have experience fitting clients of all sizes and body types. The most important aspect is understanding the body contour even before taking the measurements. Every client’s body frame is unique and we do our best to fit each one well.

2. No one is perfect

Every client’s body frame is unique and we do our best to fit each one well.

3. You’re in control

Almost every detail of the pants can be customized to fit your taste. Your pants can be made with any type of pleat — single, double, triple, box, inverted — or with no pleats at all. The trousers can receive normal side pockets, Italian pockets, western pockets, deep pockets, or even specialty pocket-watch pockets, secrets pockets. The trousers can also be fully-lined, half-lined, or unlined, and they can be equipped with a hugger waistband. We can also design tuxedo trousers, Shorts, Golf Pants, etc.

When you go custom, not only are you in control of the fit, you can also choose many of the features and details.

Some common choices are:

Collar style (standard point, spread, button down, etc.)
Cuff style (french, single or double button barrel, etc.)
Button color and material
Contrast lining (inside cuffs, collar, or button placket)
Pocket or no pocket
Pleats (side, center, or none)
Placket style
Monogram
And those are just some of the stylistic choices for shirts!

You still have to consider all of the options that you can play around with when you get into jackets and pants.

So you really can make your clothing your very own.

4. It’s an experience

Commissioning a bespoke suit is a luxury experience. Each suit is unique to the client, created over sixty hours of handcraft tailoring.

Consult
Mario meets with you, at the luxury of your own schedule, in your home or office.
We will travel to your location or you can come to our Showroom in D.C.
1. Schedule a consultation
2. Get measurements taken
3. Design your wardrobe
First fitting
You will try on the garments and our tailor will fit them exactly to your and our expectations. We do a number of quality checks along the way to make sure it’s made to spec.
Final fitting
We use all the custom-tailoring techniques with no shortcuts. And since your clothing is tailored in our workshop, you are assured a garment that fits and feels great!
Delivery
We deliver the final product to your door. You will receive finished items on average within 3-4 weeks.
5. but where should I buy?
Mario Sartorial has years of experience working with an array of men in various professional industries. At Mario Sartorial, you’ll not only get the perfect suit to fit your lifestyle, but you’ll also greatly benefit from our knowledge and expertise.
By Appointment Only
Our tailors will fit, measure and deliver your garments in the comfort of your home or office. Schedule a fitting today
(202) 390-3996
We will travel to your location in Washington metropolitan area, Maryland, Pennsylvania, Delaware, Virginia, New York, New Jersey.
Showroom: 1875 K St NW, Washington, DC 20006
6. Tailoring has its limits
 
It sounds reasonable enough to assume that you could take just about any garment to a tailor and have them make it work for you.
 
But let’s consider pants as an example.
 
If you have unbelievably massive quads and need to buy a 38-inch waist even though you wear a 32, you might think that you can just buy the pants and have the waist altered.
 
While it is possible, certain details would end up unacceptably skewed.
 
Think about the back pockets. If you take in too much material at the seat seam, you’re back pockets will end up “kissing” in the center.
 
If you take material from the outseam, your back pockets will be creeping too close to the front pockets.
 
The same is true for jackets. If you need to have the waist taken in dramatically because your chest is so large, the front pockets will end up near your sides by the time you get a proper fit.
 
So for these cases, it’s best to have the item built correctly in the first place, rather than spending a fortune on a poorly adapted alternative. 
https://youtu.be/kNkBHoHWWXA
BUY HANDMADE SHIRTS OR CUSTOM SUITS FOR MEN IN WASHINGTON DC, BALTIMORE, MD
By Appointment Only
Our tailors will fit, measure and deliver your garments in the comfort of your home or office. Schedule a fitting today
(202) 390-3996
We will travel to your location in Washington metropolitan area, Maryland, Pennsylvania, Delaware, Virginia, New York, New Jersey.
Showroom: 1875 K St NW, Washington, DC 20006

 

 

 

 

Tailor Fit – Benefits of tailored garments

When it comes to fashion for men, one of the most essential pieces of clothing is undoubtedly a suit and there is nothing better than having one tailored just for you! Although there’s nothing wrong with suits off the rack, there’s nothing compared to getting one stitched according to your measurements and choice. Men, remember: a good suit is an investment that pays off in the longer run. So, invest well and invest right!

 

Why tailored?

Every client’s body frame is unique and we do our best to fit each one well. Wearing a custom made suit is a rare thing, schedule your appointment at your home or office or come to our workshop and discover the best kept secret in D.C./Baltimore/Maryland.

Is it expensive? You cannot put a price to it!
Contrary to belief, tailored suits are not as expensive as one thinks. Unless of course you go to a high-end tailor who will charge a premium. Off-the-rack suits are generally priced higher and still need alterations to provide a better fit! Why waste that extra money on something that isn’t as special as the occasion you’re choosing it for?

Suit your style; conveniently!

Talking about convenience, stitching a suit that is made to your exact specifications is a total timesaver. Once you have identified a good tailor, your wish is their command. It saves the time spent on visiting 10 different stores to finding that almost-perfect suit. With so many types of styles and cuts available, you’re better off choosing your own and standing out from the crowd than wearing a common suit cut that everyone else is wearing. Your suit will go the extra mile in telling a tale or two about how patient and well-groomed you are!

Customise everything 
Mario Rojas is a personalized service world-class men’s clothing, resulting from the combination of timeless
ancient sartorial process and sophistication of modern styling; all simply to provide a convenient and practical solution for today’s professionals.
Take your wardrobe to another level of sophistication with this subtle, masculine design Mario Rojas Custom Tailors will measure, design and create custom trousers with the same thoroughness, and the same delicate touch that we invest in all our custom clothiers. Many choices are available for custom trousers is incredibly wide and diverse.

A great tailored shirt is an important part of any wardrobe. We offer custom shirts in sizes and styles including men’s tailored dress shirts, big and tall tailored dress shirts, women’s tailored dress shirts and petite tailored shirts. Our tailored shirt is available in a variety of natural fabrics and colors that look fabulous with or without a jacket.

BUY HANDMADE SHIRTS OR CUSTOM SUITS FOR MEN IN WASHINGTON DC, BALTIMORE, MD
By Appointment Only
Our tailors will fit, measure and deliver your garments in the comfort of your home or office. Schedule a fitting today
(202) 390-3996
We will travel to your location in Washington metropolitan area, Maryland, Pennsylvania, Delaware, Virginia, New York, New Jersey.
Showroom: 1875 K St NW, Washington, DC 20006

FIVE DRESSES THAT WILL LOOK GREAT FOR ANY-AND-ALL OCCASIONS

FIVE DRESSES THAT WILL LOOK GREAT FOR ANY-AND-ALL OCCASIONS

Honestly? Not a “dress” shirt. At least not most of them, especially if they’re cut in thicker, more rumpled cloth. But still needs to go on the list just because of its versatility. The OCBD (surprisingly, not a member of WuTang) stands for Oxford Cloth Button Down. And the “button down” part refers to the collar, not the fact that you button the shirt in front. A few lighter, pressed OCBDs can pull some duty at the office, but just make sure it’s not that much thicker than a standard poplin. The thicker the fabric, the less dressed up it can get. A workhorse for layering.

There are five dresses that every woman needs in her closet that will keep her set for whatever life brings, from the office to the club. These are the basic staples of a year-round wardrobe, and to ensure they fit perfectly, have them custom-tailored each new fashion season.

Five dresses to consider this season are:

1. Smart shirt-dress

. A smart shirt-dress is a business-casual look that can be accessorized to suit a number of other occasions, from shopping to a meeting, the club to the beach! Look for shirt-dresses made from cotton or silk so it will breathe, and so it will be comfortable any time of the year. Accessorize with boots and scarves in winter or sandals and a cute camisole in the warmer weather.

2. Classic cocktail-dress.

custom womans suits in dc mario Rojas

Everyone needs a little black dress in their closets, and you should choose one that could be worn out on the town or for a more dignified occasion. Knee-length dresses will likely give the most options when it comes to versatility and accessorizing. This is a classic staple so make sure that your little black cocktail dress is comfortable and fits-well to keep you trendy.

3. Sweet sundress.

A sweet sundress can be worn anytime of the year, as long as it is accessorized right. Pair your adorable cotton sundress with cowboy boots and a textured sweater for chilly seasons, when most women might be packing their sundresses away for the winter. Layer your sundress with leggings, tights, and underpinnings to create a Bohemian look that is great for school, shopping, or an evening out.

4. Multi-season maxi-dress.

A maxi-dress refers to a full-length dress that hits the floor. Choose one in a staple color that you can mix and match with the rest of your wardrobe. These look awesome with flats and a simple shawl, or with bulky boots and a poncho when the weather warrants.

5. Snuggly sweater-dress.

The sweater dress is making a huge comeback after its popularity during the 80’s and 90s, and today’s sweater dresses are perfect for creating a number of ensembles and looks. Choose one that is high-quality cotton, cashmere, or wool, to ensure that it lasts for many style-seasons to come. Skip long sleeves so you can wear this any time of the year, and pick a solid-color over a print for optimal wear ability!

Keep your look fresh with these five darling dresses in your closet or wardrobe. Make sure they flatter your form by having your dresses custom-tailored at a place like Mario Rojas Custom Clothiers to fit you perfectly!

BUY HANDMADE SHIRTS OR CUSTOM SUITS FOR MEN IN WASHINGTON DC, BALTIMORE, MD
By Appointment Only
Our tailors will fit, measure and deliver your garments in the comfort of your home or office. Schedule a fitting today
(202) 390-3996
We will travel to your location in Washington metropolitan area, Maryland, Pennsylvania, Delaware, Virginia, New York, New Jersey.
Showroom: 1875 K St NW, Washington, DC 20006

Proper Pants Break & Length How To Hem Suit Trousers, Dress Slacks & Chinos: Full, Half or No Break?

Proper Pants Break & Length How To Hem Suit Trousers, Dress Slacks & Chinos: Full, Half or No Break?

Proper Pants Break & Length How To Hem Suit Trousers, Dress Slacks & Chinos: Full, Half or No Break?

What’s a break? The break is when the front of your pants or trousers hits your shoe and creates a little dent that is elegant and not too extreme. No break is when the hem of your pants just hang straight and doesn’t even touch the shoe at all. Half break is if you see a slight dent in the front and full break if you have a noticeable dent in the front of the pants but none in the back. If you see pants that have dents in the front and in the back they are simply too long and it looks extremely sloppy.

Why should you care about the break in your pants? It really has an impact on the overall neatness of your outfit. If you wear a nice robe stripe double-breasted suit and your pants are either too long or too short, it makes you look goofy or sloppy. Also if you’re a tall man and you have very short pants it exaggerates your height and you look even taller and sometimes like a clown. Also if you have a certain pair of socks that you want to show off maybe a half break is exactly what you want because with a full break your socks will be invisible.

 

custom clothiers in D.C. Bespoke suits and shirts near you.

To determine what break is right for you, first look at your pant hem. Is it cuffed or is it uncuffed? If it’s cuffed that means you need less of a break. If you have an uncuffed pants and you go with no break it simply looks too short and the lack of the weight means that your pants will probably get stuck to your socks and stay further up.

If you wear cuffed pants you already have an advantage because you have more weight which pulls down your trousers more and it just creates a cleaner line and therefore you can have a shorter pants length and less of a break. If you prefer uncuffed trousers you could talk to an alterations tailor and add little lead weights to the size of your pants that way you have the same effect as with a cuffed trouser and you can get a very neat look.

Now with a tight pair of pants they touch your shoe a lot earlier than with a wider cut pair of pants where they touch it at the bottom of your laces. The wider the pants are, the longer you can hem them. The slimmer and tighter they are the shorter you have to hem them.

If you have uncuffed trousers in a wide full cut style you have to cut them a little wider but keep in mind even with a full break you just want a nice dent in the front and none in the back.

One thing I’m personally extremely fond of is a angled hem. This is something you usually only find in bespoke garments especially when it’s a cuffed angle hem. When you angle a pair of pants with cuffs you actually have to create a faux cuff that is separately cut from something but it has the advantage that it’s always long in the back and it probably can even touch almost the heel of your shoe but in the front it’s cut higher so you get that slight break. It looks elegant with a black tie or white tie outfit because you get that slight break but that long line in the back.

Having angled pant hems is definitely one of the little tricks of the trade and if your alterations tailor doesn’t know how to do an angle hem with cuffs you probably have to seek out the tailor or someone who is really experienced with custom clothing. Of course you can only do that if you have a lot of extra width or an unfinished pair of pants.

Custom Pants by Mario Rojas

From Gentleman’s Gazette

BUY HANDMADE SHIRTS OR CUSTOM SUITS FOR MEN IN WASHINGTON DC, BALTIMORE, MD
By Appointment Only
Our tailors will fit, measure and deliver your garments in the comfort of your home or office. Schedule a fitting today
(202) 390-3996
We will travel to your location in Washington metropolitan area, Maryland, Pennsylvania, Delaware, Virginia, New York, New Jersey.
Showroom: 1875 K St NW, Washington, DC 20006

 

10 Clothing Items Every Man Or Gentleman Should Have

 
1. White dress shirt

#1. White, semi-spread, light to mid-weight Poplin/Pinpoint/Twill
#1. White, semi-spread, light to mid-weight Poplin/Pinpoint/Twill

The fabric should be either made of plain poplin weave or a fine herringbone twill. Ideally, you want a medium spread collar because it can be worn with many things and it works with every face shape. You also want no chest pocket because it’s a formal shirt and formal shirts don’t have chest pockets.

2. Light blue dress shirt

#2. Light Blue, semi-spread, light to mid-weight Poplin/Pinpoint/Twill
#2. Light Blue, semi-spread, light to mid-weight Poplin/Pinpoint/Twill

You want it to be made from a rugged fabric such as Oxford. You can also go with poplin, maybe a twill weave or anything else that stands the test of time. If you live in warmer regions, you can also get an open weave fabric, but overall, I suggest you stay clear of the chest pocket even though you could wear it because it’s a less formal shirt.

3. Navy suit


To start, I’d invest in a single breasted suit with notched lapels, not too skinny, not too wide, about 10cm or 4 inches for the lapel width. I would choose side vents and flap pockets. If you don’t like the single-breasted style, you can also go for double-breasted with six buttons and two closing buttons. For pants, I would choose cuffed, and since I have bigger thighs, I would go pleated. Of course, that’s up to you.

4. Classic navy blazer
No, not the one from your suit. While you can wear that jacket as a separate with khakis, if you get a navy blazer, you should get something distinctly different. That being said, get a lighter shade of navy than your suit because it has to look different and a lighter color is usually more casual which is the origin if the blazer hence, you should go with that.

5. Gray flannel suit


It’s a classic wardrobe staple and men like Cary Grant wore it in North by Northwest; Gianni Agnelli made it world-famous with a specific shade from Vitale Barberis Canonico. It’s not just so popular because some famous people wore it, it’s very functional, versatile, and for example, you can take the pants and wear it with a navy blazer which is another very classic combination.

6. Tweed sportcoat


I’m wearing one right now; it’s a twill weave with a nice windowpane overcheck. There are lots of other options, for example, with a houndstooth, or a regular twill, or a shepherd’s check or simply a Donegal tweed, no matter how old you are or what your style is, there’s a tweed sports coat out there that suits you perfectly.

7. Gabardine trench coat

BUY HANDMADE SHIRTS OR CUSTOM SUITS FOR MEN IN WASHINGTON DC, BALTIMORE, MD By Appointment Only Our tailors will fit, measure and deliver your garments in the comfort of your home or office. Schedule a fitting today (202) 390-3996 We will travel to your location in Washington metropolitan area, Maryland, Pennsylvania, Delaware, Virginia, New York, New Jersey. Showroom: 1875 K St NW, Washington, DC 20006
It’s a timeless classic that has a military history; it’s a perfect raincoat. It can have a liner for colder months of the year, and in a double-breasted silhouette, it’s simply elegant, and you can pair it with formal suits as well as casual combinations.

8. Chinos
Chinos are cotton pants that come in a tone of khaki, sand, or stone, and they’re more casual and very versatile. You can wear them with all kinds of jackets or just a shirt or a sweater and they’re often office appropriate.

9. Vest or waistcoat

” Your clothes are always working. They’re either working for you or against you, but they’re always working.”

Personally, I love vests; I have lots of them. If I’d have to pick just one vest, I’d go with a burgundy collar, maybe a flannel, or doe skin, because it’s contrasting and you can pair it with anything else I discussed today and a lot more.

10. Sweater
More specifically a bottle green wool sweater with a V-neck because I like to wear them all the time. If you don’t, go with a crew neck that is round and it just looks better than a V-neck. It’s perfect to layer over shirts, you can have it under jackets, you can wear it on its own, or with an overcoat, and just keeps you warm in the winter.

BUY HANDMADE SHIRTS OR CUSTOM SUITS FOR MEN IN WASHINGTON DC, BALTIMORE, MD
By Appointment Only
Our tailors will fit, measure and deliver your garments in the comfort of your home or office. Schedule a fitting today
(202) 390-3996
We will travel to your location in Washington metropolitan area, Maryland, Pennsylvania, Delaware, Virginia, New York, New Jersey.
Showroom: 1875 K St NW, Washington, DC 20006

 

Post from Gentleman’s Gazette
https://gentl.mn/2iJTv2N

Differences between a $100 dollar suit and a $1000 dollar suit.

 

 

 

What you have to look for so you get the best value for your money.

In this article, we highlight the key differences between a $100 dollar suit and a $1000 dollar suit and explain to you.

custom clothiers in D.C. Bespoke suits and shirts near you.

First, let’s focus on the $100 dollar suit. Basically, it is a completely machine-made suit that is sewn together in 2-3 hours max and there is no handwork whatsoever. When it comes to suits, hand sewing is better because it is more flexible and it adapts to your body more easily and so especially for a jacket, you always want more handwork. A $100 dollar suit is made of very cheap fabric and cheap lining, that means, it’s usually stretched polyester with nylon or other artificial fibers. Also, the raw materials may be cotton or wool that go into that fabric are of the lowest quality possible. It simply is stiffer, less comfortable, and you’re more prone to sweating in it.

A $100 suit has a glued interlining. So, what exactly is interlining and why do you use it? When you start out with fabric, you have a two-dimensional surface, in order to keep it in a three-dimensional shape, you need a second layer and the layer needs to be attached in a certain shape. For the $100 suit, this interlining is of very low quality and is glued to the fabric, that works in the beginning but it also acts as an insulator so you’re much more likely to overheat and sweat.

Another aspect of a $100 suit is the lack of attention to details. For example, the buttonholes are first sewn and then cut not the other way around that means you see some fraying. Also, the trimmings are usually low-quality, the buttons are plastic, the lining is polyester, and everything is made to remain low on the cost side but it also means low on the quality. The cut of a $100 suit can in theory, be as good as the on of a $1000 suit or a more expensive suit but in practice, that’s really rarely the case. More often than not, $100 suits are either very fashion-forward, with very skinny lapels and you can only wear them a year max, before they go out of fashion or they’re simply old-fashioned and the cut is boxy and bulky and simply not favorable.

Another pet peeve of mine is the deep-cut armhole that restricts your movement and $100 suits usually have this 90% of all cases. In recent years, it has changed a little bit, sometimes they have adopted more modern cuts and they try to go with details such as working buttonholes, but in reality, they still use cheap buttonholes and it still looks cheap.

BUY HANDMADE SHIRTS OR CUSTOM SUITS FOR MEN IN WASHINGTON DC, BALTIMORE, MD By Appointment Only Our tailors will fit, measure and deliver your garments in the comfort of your home or office. Schedule a fitting today (202) 390-3996 We will travel to your location in Washington metropolitan area, Maryland, Pennsylvania, Delaware, Virginia, New York, New Jersey. Showroom: 1875 K St NW, Washington, DC 20006
BUY HANDMADE SHIRTS OR CUSTOM SUITS FOR MEN IN WASHINGTON DC, BALTIMORE, MD

The time that goes into a thousand dollar suit can range from 8 hours to 30 hours so that’s obviously a huge difference and you will also be able to feel that. Generally, a thousand dollar suit show some amount of handwork. Sometimes, they have decorative elements like hand-sewn buttonholes that look really nice, they use a silk thread that is shiny or a cotton thread, they may have machine-made buttonholes but it looks nice. They may have an interlining that is sewn in hand or a collar which makes it softer and fit better and make you look better.

The biggest advantage of a thousand dollar suit over a hundred dollar suit is the interlining and the construction. Where the $100 suit has a glued interlining, the $1000 suit has a half canvas or full canvas interlining. A half canvas is actually sewn to the fabric and it’s usually made of materials such as horsehair or cotton or wool and that way, it’s more breathable so you don’t overheat. To save on cost, this form of interlining is only used on the upper part of your body such as your chest and it’s glued at the bottom part of your jacket. Full canvas means that the interlining is sewn throughout your jacket and it’s the best version you can get. At a thousand dollar price point, usually, these canvases are made by machine and not by hand.

This little secret has helped me save a lot of money and to get quality suits. When I walk into a store and look at suits, the first thing I do is I flap up the collar and look at the stitching. If it is machine-sewn, I move on especially at a vintage store. If it’s hand-sewn, I take the jacket off and take a closer look. I do this because a hand-sewn collar indicate a very high quality. If the collar is hand-sewn, chances are, it’s a high-quality garment and it deserves a second look and you can use the hallmarks I described in this video to identify if you should buy it or not.

Post from Gentleman’s Gazette

BUY HANDMADE SHIRTS OR CUSTOM SUITS FOR MEN IN WASHINGTON DC, BALTIMORE, MD
By Appointment Only
Our tailors will fit, measure and deliver your garments in the comfort of your home or office. Schedule a fitting today
(202) 390-3996
We will travel to your location in Washington metropolitan area, Maryland, Pennsylvania, Delaware, Virginia, New York, New Jersey.
Showroom: 1875 K St NW, Washington, DC 20006

 

A Pocket Primer: 8 Suit Coat Pockets

In the early days of suits, the coats had no pockets. Rather, men carried their essentials in small pouches. Typically tied around the waist, these early pockets stowed everything from bullets to brandy, but eventually, as suits became slimmer, these bags became too bulky and unwieldy to wear beneath them. Near the end of the 1800’s pockets began appearing on vests, and by the turn of the century, they were a mainstay feature in suit coats as well. Here’s a look at several types of pockets, many of which have been around 100 years or more.

 

In the early days of suits, the coats had no pockets. Rather, men carried their essentials in small pouches. Typically tied around the waist, these early pockets stowed everything from bullets to brandy, but eventually, as suits became slimmer, these bags became too bulky and unwieldy to wear beneath them. Near the end of the 1800’s pockets began appearing on vests, and by the turn of the century, they were a mainstay feature in suit coats as well. Here’s a look at several types of pockets, many of which have been around 100 years or more.

1. Patch Pockets

 

Often associated with lightweight fabrics, patch pockets are made of the same material as the suit coat, and they are sewn directly to its exterior. In contrast, most other suit coat pockets are small bags or pouches sewn into the lining of the jacket and accessed from a slot on the outside.

2. Flaps and Jets

Originally designed to protect the contents of your pockets from rain, flaps are small fabric covers that rest over the opening of pockets, and they are made with the same material as the rest of the coat. The flap is sewed to the jetting of the pocket, and if the flap is left off, the pocket is referred to as “jetted”. A common feature on tuxedo jackets, jetted pockets create a formal, polished look.

3. Straight Pockets

When a suit coat’s two main pockets feature lines that are parallel with the ground, they are referred to as straight. This is the traditional pocket placement for suit coats, and these pockets are considered slightly more formal than their slanted counterparts.

4. Slanted Pockets

Also known as hacked pockets, slanted pockets are relatively new compared to straight pockets, and they are associated with a sporty look. The lines of these pockets lend a shapelier look to some wearers, and they’ve often been lauded as easy to access – in fact, they first gained popularity among men who needed convenient access to their pockets while riding horseback.

5. Ticket Pockets

A convenient and stylish remnant from the era of rail travel, the ticket pocket is the small pocket above the right hip pocket on a suit coat. Typically covered with a flap and featuring a slim profile, this pocket is variably called a change pocket or a receipt pocket. Particularly popular with Savile Row tailoring and other coats with a narrow silhouette, this pocket can be equally stylish and functional – pop your subway card, money clip, or golf pencils in this pocket so you have them within easy reach.

6. Interior Pockets

Inner pockets serve to increase the storage capacity of a suit coat, and they are typically located on the inner chest area or near the waist. These pockets are useful for stowing wallets, keys, or other items, but you should avoid overfilling them. Too much weight or bulk in these pockets can ruin the integrity of the silhouette by creating unwanted bulges or creases.

7. Breast Pocket

The breast pocket is a small pocket on the left side of a suit coat. Traditionally jetted, this pocket is designed for one thing – to hold a pocket square. This small handkerchief lends a pop of color and panache to a suit, and you can play with different looks such as straight folds, one corner folds, or a puff folds to add a bit of intrigue.

8. Sewn-Shut Pockets

Pockets in off-the-rack suits are frequently sewn shut to keep the pockets fresh and empty for the suit’s eventual buyer. However, even with tailor-made suits, the pockets are sometimes sewn shut – it helps the suit lay better for its final pressing. A thread ripper can help you remove the stitches without marring the suit, or you can ask the tailor to remove them for you.

If you want to learn more about pockets or the rest of the suit, contact us directly. At Mario Rojas, we customize suits so you have the look, the fit, and the pockets that are right for you.

BUY HANDMADE SHIRTS OR CUSTOM SUITS FOR MEN IN WASHINGTON DC, BALTIMORE, MD
By Appointment Only
Our tailors will fit, measure and deliver your garments in the comfort of your home or office. Schedule a fitting today
(202) 390-3996
We will travel to your location in Washington metropolitan area, Maryland, Pennsylvania, Delaware, Virginia, New York, New Jersey.
Showroom: 1875 K St NW, Washington, DC 20006

 

 

4 Reasons to Purchase a Wool Suit

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4 Reasons to Purchase a Wool Suit

Even an expensive suit that fits well can still look like it’s made of poor quality fabric. Fit and construction details aren’t the only factors that make a good suit. The fabric from which the suit is tailored is important as well. Wool has long been a traditional choice of fabric for suits, and there are several advantages to consider when investing in a wool suit for your wardrobe.

1. All-Season Wear

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Suits made with wool fabrics are appropriate for wear in both cold and warm weather conditions. In cold weather, wool traps air within the fibers, acting as an insulator to keep the body warm. The heavier wool materials and thicker fabrics from which winter suits are made hold in more air to keep you warm.

Thinner wool fibers can effectively wick moisture away from the body and are lightweight and breathable, making tropical wool fabrics ideal for summer wear. Larger, more porous gaps are woven in the fabric to make a wool suit more comfortable for wear in hot weather. While cotton and linen suits are also great lightweight choices for hot weather, they tend to crease and wrinkle more easily than wool suits.

2. Durability

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Often thought of as a luxury fabric, wool is resilient, attractive, comfortable, and low maintenance. In fact, its durability makes it a popular choice for both men’s and women’s suits. Wool is tough and holds up better than other fabrics. There are different types of wool fabrics to choose from, such as virgin wool and worsted (tightly woven) wool, and often, people prefer natural fibers like wool over synthetic fibers.

Because wool is a hard-wearing fiber, it can look great for many years with proper care. Polyester and polyester-rayon blend fabrics are less expensive materials that are strong and flexible and resist wrinkling, but these synthetic fabrics aren’t as breathable as wool, which make them uncomfortable in hot weather. Also, some polyester fabrics have the additional drawback of looking shiny in appearance.

3. Thread Count

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Wool fibers vary in fineness. Coarser fibers typically are used in outer-layer clothing and suit jackets. When getting fitted for a suit, consider the super number, or S number—the thread count which describes the fineness of the fabric’s individual fibers. A higher S number indicates a thinner, smoother, and softer fabric that makes a suit cloth feel silkier.

Wools spun at higher speeds are better quality wools, but lower number wools are still good wools for durable clothing. If you are looking for a suit to wear on special occasions, super wools with higher numbers have smoother textures that are considered more luxurious.

Although finer wools produce a lighter cloth and are usually more expensive, the price tag of a suit doesn’t necessarily make it the best buy. Thread counts in the 200s can make for one classy-looking suit, but the suit may not be as durable as a heavier wool fabric. It can be more difficult to clean too.

Since a higher thread count indicates a finer, or thinner, fiber, wool materials with extremely high thread counts often wear more quickly, usually taking on a shiny appearance. Fabrics spun from super-fine wool also wrinkle more easily than coarser or thicker wool fabrics.

4. Shapeliness

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No matter what the quality of an off-the-rack suit may be or how well designed it is, if it doesn’t conform to your body shape and type, the suit isn’t going to be the right fit.

You can tell if a suit is made of sturdy material when you bunch the fabric and it leaves little or no wrinkling when you let go of it. Wool has a natural spring to it so the fibers spring back and stretch rather than break. This flexibility helps the fabric hold its shape.

While you don’t want a suit that feels too heavy for wear, a suit made from a heavier cloth drapes better. A well-fitted suit should still conform to your body shape even after you’ve worn it a few times, and sturdy wool fabrics won’t stretch out or deteriorate as quickly.

 

If you are looking to add a custom-tailored suit to your wardrobe, Mario Rojas Custom Clothiers can fit you with quality handmade apparel in the style and fabric materials you choose.

BUY HANDMADE SHIRTS OR CUSTOM SUITS FOR MEN IN WASHINGTON DC, BALTIMORE, MD
By Appointment Only
Our tailors will fit, measure and deliver your garments in the comfort of your home or office. Schedule a fitting today
(202) 390-3996
We will travel to your location in Washington metropolitan area, Maryland, Pennsylvania, Delaware, Virginia, New York, New Jersey.
Showroom: 1875 K St NW, Washington, DC 20006