10 Clothing Items Every Man Or Gentleman Should Have

 
1. White dress shirt

#1. White, semi-spread, light to mid-weight Poplin/Pinpoint/Twill
#1. White, semi-spread, light to mid-weight Poplin/Pinpoint/Twill

The fabric should be either made of plain poplin weave or a fine herringbone twill. Ideally, you want a medium spread collar because it can be worn with many things and it works with every face shape. You also want no chest pocket because it’s a formal shirt and formal shirts don’t have chest pockets.

2. Light blue dress shirt

#2. Light Blue, semi-spread, light to mid-weight Poplin/Pinpoint/Twill
#2. Light Blue, semi-spread, light to mid-weight Poplin/Pinpoint/Twill

You want it to be made from a rugged fabric such as Oxford. You can also go with poplin, maybe a twill weave or anything else that stands the test of time. If you live in warmer regions, you can also get an open weave fabric, but overall, I suggest you stay clear of the chest pocket even though you could wear it because it’s a less formal shirt.

3. Navy suit


To start, I’d invest in a single breasted suit with notched lapels, not too skinny, not too wide, about 10cm or 4 inches for the lapel width. I would choose side vents and flap pockets. If you don’t like the single-breasted style, you can also go for double-breasted with six buttons and two closing buttons. For pants, I would choose cuffed, and since I have bigger thighs, I would go pleated. Of course, that’s up to you.

4. Classic navy blazer
No, not the one from your suit. While you can wear that jacket as a separate with khakis, if you get a navy blazer, you should get something distinctly different. That being said, get a lighter shade of navy than your suit because it has to look different and a lighter color is usually more casual which is the origin if the blazer hence, you should go with that.

5. Gray flannel suit


It’s a classic wardrobe staple and men like Cary Grant wore it in North by Northwest; Gianni Agnelli made it world-famous with a specific shade from Vitale Barberis Canonico. It’s not just so popular because some famous people wore it, it’s very functional, versatile, and for example, you can take the pants and wear it with a navy blazer which is another very classic combination.

6. Tweed sportcoat


I’m wearing one right now; it’s a twill weave with a nice windowpane overcheck. There are lots of other options, for example, with a houndstooth, or a regular twill, or a shepherd’s check or simply a Donegal tweed, no matter how old you are or what your style is, there’s a tweed sports coat out there that suits you perfectly.

7. Gabardine trench coat

BUY HANDMADE SHIRTS OR CUSTOM SUITS FOR MEN IN WASHINGTON DC, BALTIMORE, MD By Appointment Only Our tailors will fit, measure and deliver your garments in the comfort of your home or office. Schedule a fitting today (202) 390-3996 We will travel to your location in Washington metropolitan area, Maryland, Pennsylvania, Delaware, Virginia, New York, New Jersey. Showroom: 1875 K St NW, Washington, DC 20006
It’s a timeless classic that has a military history; it’s a perfect raincoat. It can have a liner for colder months of the year, and in a double-breasted silhouette, it’s simply elegant, and you can pair it with formal suits as well as casual combinations.

8. Chinos
Chinos are cotton pants that come in a tone of khaki, sand, or stone, and they’re more casual and very versatile. You can wear them with all kinds of jackets or just a shirt or a sweater and they’re often office appropriate.

9. Vest or waistcoat

” Your clothes are always working. They’re either working for you or against you, but they’re always working.”

Personally, I love vests; I have lots of them. If I’d have to pick just one vest, I’d go with a burgundy collar, maybe a flannel, or doe skin, because it’s contrasting and you can pair it with anything else I discussed today and a lot more.

10. Sweater
More specifically a bottle green wool sweater with a V-neck because I like to wear them all the time. If you don’t, go with a crew neck that is round and it just looks better than a V-neck. It’s perfect to layer over shirts, you can have it under jackets, you can wear it on its own, or with an overcoat, and just keeps you warm in the winter.

BUY HANDMADE SHIRTS OR CUSTOM SUITS FOR MEN IN WASHINGTON DC, BALTIMORE, MD
By Appointment Only
Our tailors will fit, measure and deliver your garments in the comfort of your home or office. Schedule a fitting today
(202) 390-3996
We will travel to your location in Washington metropolitan area, Maryland, Pennsylvania, Delaware, Virginia, New York, New Jersey.
Showroom: 1875 K St NW, Washington, DC 20006

 

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Differences between a $100 dollar suit and a $1000 dollar suit.

 

 

 

What you have to look for so you get the best value for your money.

In this article, we highlight the key differences between a $100 dollar suit and a $1000 dollar suit and explain to you.

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First, let’s focus on the $100 dollar suit. Basically, it is a completely machine-made suit that is sewn together in 2-3 hours max and there is no handwork whatsoever. When it comes to suits, hand sewing is better because it is more flexible and it adapts to your body more easily and so especially for a jacket, you always want more handwork. A $100 dollar suit is made of very cheap fabric and cheap lining, that means, it’s usually stretched polyester with nylon or other artificial fibers. Also, the raw materials may be cotton or wool that go into that fabric are of the lowest quality possible. It simply is stiffer, less comfortable, and you’re more prone to sweating in it.

A $100 suit has a glued interlining. So, what exactly is interlining and why do you use it? When you start out with fabric, you have a two-dimensional surface, in order to keep it in a three-dimensional shape, you need a second layer and the layer needs to be attached in a certain shape. For the $100 suit, this interlining is of very low quality and is glued to the fabric, that works in the beginning but it also acts as an insulator so you’re much more likely to overheat and sweat.

Another aspect of a $100 suit is the lack of attention to details. For example, the buttonholes are first sewn and then cut not the other way around that means you see some fraying. Also, the trimmings are usually low-quality, the buttons are plastic, the lining is polyester, and everything is made to remain low on the cost side but it also means low on the quality. The cut of a $100 suit can in theory, be as good as the on of a $1000 suit or a more expensive suit but in practice, that’s really rarely the case. More often than not, $100 suits are either very fashion-forward, with very skinny lapels and you can only wear them a year max, before they go out of fashion or they’re simply old-fashioned and the cut is boxy and bulky and simply not favorable.

Another pet peeve of mine is the deep-cut armhole that restricts your movement and $100 suits usually have this 90% of all cases. In recent years, it has changed a little bit, sometimes they have adopted more modern cuts and they try to go with details such as working buttonholes, but in reality, they still use cheap buttonholes and it still looks cheap.

BUY HANDMADE SHIRTS OR CUSTOM SUITS FOR MEN IN WASHINGTON DC, BALTIMORE, MD By Appointment Only Our tailors will fit, measure and deliver your garments in the comfort of your home or office. Schedule a fitting today (202) 390-3996 We will travel to your location in Washington metropolitan area, Maryland, Pennsylvania, Delaware, Virginia, New York, New Jersey. Showroom: 1875 K St NW, Washington, DC 20006
BUY HANDMADE SHIRTS OR CUSTOM SUITS FOR MEN IN WASHINGTON DC, BALTIMORE, MD

The time that goes into a thousand dollar suit can range from 8 hours to 30 hours so that’s obviously a huge difference and you will also be able to feel that. Generally, a thousand dollar suit show some amount of handwork. Sometimes, they have decorative elements like hand-sewn buttonholes that look really nice, they use a silk thread that is shiny or a cotton thread, they may have machine-made buttonholes but it looks nice. They may have an interlining that is sewn in hand or a collar which makes it softer and fit better and make you look better.

The biggest advantage of a thousand dollar suit over a hundred dollar suit is the interlining and the construction. Where the $100 suit has a glued interlining, the $1000 suit has a half canvas or full canvas interlining. A half canvas is actually sewn to the fabric and it’s usually made of materials such as horsehair or cotton or wool and that way, it’s more breathable so you don’t overheat. To save on cost, this form of interlining is only used on the upper part of your body such as your chest and it’s glued at the bottom part of your jacket. Full canvas means that the interlining is sewn throughout your jacket and it’s the best version you can get. At a thousand dollar price point, usually, these canvases are made by machine and not by hand.

This little secret has helped me save a lot of money and to get quality suits. When I walk into a store and look at suits, the first thing I do is I flap up the collar and look at the stitching. If it is machine-sewn, I move on especially at a vintage store. If it’s hand-sewn, I take the jacket off and take a closer look. I do this because a hand-sewn collar indicate a very high quality. If the collar is hand-sewn, chances are, it’s a high-quality garment and it deserves a second look and you can use the hallmarks I described in this video to identify if you should buy it or not.

Post from Gentleman’s Gazette

BUY HANDMADE SHIRTS OR CUSTOM SUITS FOR MEN IN WASHINGTON DC, BALTIMORE, MD
By Appointment Only
Our tailors will fit, measure and deliver your garments in the comfort of your home or office. Schedule a fitting today
(202) 390-3996
We will travel to your location in Washington metropolitan area, Maryland, Pennsylvania, Delaware, Virginia, New York, New Jersey.
Showroom: 1875 K St NW, Washington, DC 20006

 

A Pocket Primer: 8 Suit Coat Pockets

In the early days of suits, the coats had no pockets. Rather, men carried their essentials in small pouches. Typically tied around the waist, these early pockets stowed everything from bullets to brandy, but eventually, as suits became slimmer, these bags became too bulky and unwieldy to wear beneath them. Near the end of the 1800’s pockets began appearing on vests, and by the turn of the century, they were a mainstay feature in suit coats as well. Here’s a look at several types of pockets, many of which have been around 100 years or more.

 

In the early days of suits, the coats had no pockets. Rather, men carried their essentials in small pouches. Typically tied around the waist, these early pockets stowed everything from bullets to brandy, but eventually, as suits became slimmer, these bags became too bulky and unwieldy to wear beneath them. Near the end of the 1800’s pockets began appearing on vests, and by the turn of the century, they were a mainstay feature in suit coats as well. Here’s a look at several types of pockets, many of which have been around 100 years or more.

1. Patch Pockets

 

Often associated with lightweight fabrics, patch pockets are made of the same material as the suit coat, and they are sewn directly to its exterior. In contrast, most other suit coat pockets are small bags or pouches sewn into the lining of the jacket and accessed from a slot on the outside.

2. Flaps and Jets

Originally designed to protect the contents of your pockets from rain, flaps are small fabric covers that rest over the opening of pockets, and they are made with the same material as the rest of the coat. The flap is sewed to the jetting of the pocket, and if the flap is left off, the pocket is referred to as “jetted”. A common feature on tuxedo jackets, jetted pockets create a formal, polished look.

3. Straight Pockets

When a suit coat’s two main pockets feature lines that are parallel with the ground, they are referred to as straight. This is the traditional pocket placement for suit coats, and these pockets are considered slightly more formal than their slanted counterparts.

4. Slanted Pockets

Also known as hacked pockets, slanted pockets are relatively new compared to straight pockets, and they are associated with a sporty look. The lines of these pockets lend a shapelier look to some wearers, and they’ve often been lauded as easy to access – in fact, they first gained popularity among men who needed convenient access to their pockets while riding horseback.

5. Ticket Pockets

A convenient and stylish remnant from the era of rail travel, the ticket pocket is the small pocket above the right hip pocket on a suit coat. Typically covered with a flap and featuring a slim profile, this pocket is variably called a change pocket or a receipt pocket. Particularly popular with Savile Row tailoring and other coats with a narrow silhouette, this pocket can be equally stylish and functional – pop your subway card, money clip, or golf pencils in this pocket so you have them within easy reach.

6. Interior Pockets

Inner pockets serve to increase the storage capacity of a suit coat, and they are typically located on the inner chest area or near the waist. These pockets are useful for stowing wallets, keys, or other items, but you should avoid overfilling them. Too much weight or bulk in these pockets can ruin the integrity of the silhouette by creating unwanted bulges or creases.

7. Breast Pocket

The breast pocket is a small pocket on the left side of a suit coat. Traditionally jetted, this pocket is designed for one thing – to hold a pocket square. This small handkerchief lends a pop of color and panache to a suit, and you can play with different looks such as straight folds, one corner folds, or a puff folds to add a bit of intrigue.

8. Sewn-Shut Pockets

Pockets in off-the-rack suits are frequently sewn shut to keep the pockets fresh and empty for the suit’s eventual buyer. However, even with tailor-made suits, the pockets are sometimes sewn shut – it helps the suit lay better for its final pressing. A thread ripper can help you remove the stitches without marring the suit, or you can ask the tailor to remove them for you.

If you want to learn more about pockets or the rest of the suit, contact us directly. At Mario Rojas, we customize suits so you have the look, the fit, and the pockets that are right for you.

BUY HANDMADE SHIRTS OR CUSTOM SUITS FOR MEN IN WASHINGTON DC, BALTIMORE, MD
By Appointment Only
Our tailors will fit, measure and deliver your garments in the comfort of your home or office. Schedule a fitting today
(202) 390-3996
We will travel to your location in Washington metropolitan area, Maryland, Pennsylvania, Delaware, Virginia, New York, New Jersey.
Showroom: 1875 K St NW, Washington, DC 20006

 

 

4 Reasons to Purchase a Wool Suit

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4 Reasons to Purchase a Wool Suit

Even an expensive suit that fits well can still look like it’s made of poor quality fabric. Fit and construction details aren’t the only factors that make a good suit. The fabric from which the suit is tailored is important as well. Wool has long been a traditional choice of fabric for suits, and there are several advantages to consider when investing in a wool suit for your wardrobe.

1. All-Season Wear

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Suits made with wool fabrics are appropriate for wear in both cold and warm weather conditions. In cold weather, wool traps air within the fibers, acting as an insulator to keep the body warm. The heavier wool materials and thicker fabrics from which winter suits are made hold in more air to keep you warm.

Thinner wool fibers can effectively wick moisture away from the body and are lightweight and breathable, making tropical wool fabrics ideal for summer wear. Larger, more porous gaps are woven in the fabric to make a wool suit more comfortable for wear in hot weather. While cotton and linen suits are also great lightweight choices for hot weather, they tend to crease and wrinkle more easily than wool suits.

2. Durability

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Often thought of as a luxury fabric, wool is resilient, attractive, comfortable, and low maintenance. In fact, its durability makes it a popular choice for both men’s and women’s suits. Wool is tough and holds up better than other fabrics. There are different types of wool fabrics to choose from, such as virgin wool and worsted (tightly woven) wool, and often, people prefer natural fibers like wool over synthetic fibers.

Because wool is a hard-wearing fiber, it can look great for many years with proper care. Polyester and polyester-rayon blend fabrics are less expensive materials that are strong and flexible and resist wrinkling, but these synthetic fabrics aren’t as breathable as wool, which make them uncomfortable in hot weather. Also, some polyester fabrics have the additional drawback of looking shiny in appearance.

3. Thread Count

fabrics front cover 359

Wool fibers vary in fineness. Coarser fibers typically are used in outer-layer clothing and suit jackets. When getting fitted for a suit, consider the super number, or S number—the thread count which describes the fineness of the fabric’s individual fibers. A higher S number indicates a thinner, smoother, and softer fabric that makes a suit cloth feel silkier.

Wools spun at higher speeds are better quality wools, but lower number wools are still good wools for durable clothing. If you are looking for a suit to wear on special occasions, super wools with higher numbers have smoother textures that are considered more luxurious.

Although finer wools produce a lighter cloth and are usually more expensive, the price tag of a suit doesn’t necessarily make it the best buy. Thread counts in the 200s can make for one classy-looking suit, but the suit may not be as durable as a heavier wool fabric. It can be more difficult to clean too.

Since a higher thread count indicates a finer, or thinner, fiber, wool materials with extremely high thread counts often wear more quickly, usually taking on a shiny appearance. Fabrics spun from super-fine wool also wrinkle more easily than coarser or thicker wool fabrics.

4. Shapeliness

contacto

No matter what the quality of an off-the-rack suit may be or how well designed it is, if it doesn’t conform to your body shape and type, the suit isn’t going to be the right fit.

You can tell if a suit is made of sturdy material when you bunch the fabric and it leaves little or no wrinkling when you let go of it. Wool has a natural spring to it so the fibers spring back and stretch rather than break. This flexibility helps the fabric hold its shape.

While you don’t want a suit that feels too heavy for wear, a suit made from a heavier cloth drapes better. A well-fitted suit should still conform to your body shape even after you’ve worn it a few times, and sturdy wool fabrics won’t stretch out or deteriorate as quickly.

 

If you are looking to add a custom-tailored suit to your wardrobe, Mario Rojas Custom Clothiers can fit you with quality handmade apparel in the style and fabric materials you choose.

BUY HANDMADE SHIRTS OR CUSTOM SUITS FOR MEN IN WASHINGTON DC, BALTIMORE, MD
By Appointment Only
Our tailors will fit, measure and deliver your garments in the comfort of your home or office. Schedule a fitting today
(202) 390-3996
We will travel to your location in Washington metropolitan area, Maryland, Pennsylvania, Delaware, Virginia, New York, New Jersey.
Showroom: 1875 K St NW, Washington, DC 20006

 

Cuffs, Lapels, and Fits: The Basic Anatomy of a Suit

Do you need to find a Washington, DC, Baltimore, Maryland, custom clothiers for a new suit? Contact Mario Rojas to get the expertise and quality that you are looking for!

Every man need s a good suit. But if you’re new to wearing a suit, you might not know exactly howto craft the right suit for your needs. In this blog, we outline several elements of a suit and discuss your options for suit-wearing success.

Cuffs

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The cuff of your suit actually refers to the wrist closures of the shirt you wear under it. You have three main cuff options.

French Cuff

If you want to wear cufflinks, you need the French cuff. French cuffs fold back and have holes for cufflinks. The cufflinks you choose can dress this suit up or down, though typically French cuffs are reserved for more formal occasions.

Barrel Cuff

Barrel cuffs, also known as button cuffs, are the most common type of cuffs. Barrel cuffs are spectacularly easy and don’t require any extra thought from you when you’re getting ready for the day. Any shirt you buy at the store will typically have single buttons on each cuff. Custom suits, however, give you the option of having two or three buttons.

Turnback Cuff

The turnback cuff, sometimes referred to as the James Bond cuff or cocktail cuff, is a mix of a barrel cuff and a French cuff. It folds back just like a French cuff, but instead of requiring cufflinks, this cuff buttons. As its nick name suggests, this type of cuff was popularized by Sean Connery’s James Bond, so if you’re feeling a little more daring than usual,choose this cuff.

Lapels

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Lapels are the folded flaps on the front of your suit jacket. There are three basic shapes of lapels, all fit for different occasions.

Notch Lapel

The notch lapel is the most common variety of lapel. It’s named for the notch made when the bottom of the collar meets the top of the lapel. You may find slimmer or wider notches, but they’re all based on the same principle. This lapel is versatile, perfect for anything from job interviews to a typical day of work.

Peak Lapel

Peak lapels can be found on formal suit jackets like tailcoats or morning coats. The edges of the lapels point upwards to your shoulders, which makes you look slightly taller. These cuffs are difficult to put together correctly, so they’re a bit more expensive. Weddings and formal dinners are common sites to see peak lapels.

Shawl Lapel

The shawl lapel, unlike the notch or peak, has one long continuous curve, instead of any breaks or points. You’ll usually only find this lapel on a tuxedo or smoking jacket. The shawl lapel represents a classy choice that works for red-carpet galas or black-tie events.

Fits

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The fit is how your suit conforms to your entire body. When choosing a fit, take your body type into consideration.

Classic Fit

A classic fit, or traditional fit, is good for movement and growth. While it’s clean cut, it’s not fitted tightly enough to make any person who’s not used to wearing a suit uncomfortable.

Slim Fit

You may also hear slim fit suits referred to as Italian fits. As the name suggests, this suit is fitted closely to the body in the arms, the chest,and the legs. This doesn’t mean only skinny people can wear it; it just means the suits its closer to the skin.

Modern Fit

Modern fits aren’t as relaxed as a classic fit or as trimmed as a slim fit. Choose this fit if you want to look sharp but are uncomfortable or unsure about a slim fit. Modern fitted suits are also easy to dress up or down depending on your needs. Once you decide which of these options you like best, you can start making more detailed decisions and taking measurements. Use this general guide as a starting point,and get in touch with a custom suit maker to build the most comfortable,classiest suit for your body type.

BUY HANDMADE SHIRTS OR CUSTOM SUITS FOR MEN IN WASHINGTON DC, BALTIMORE, MD
By Appointment Only
Our tailors will fit, measure and deliver your garments in the comfort of your home or office. Schedule a fitting today
(202) 390-3996
We will travel to your location in Washington metropolitan area, Maryland, Pennsylvania, Delaware, Virginia, New York, New Jersey.
Showroom: 1875 K St NW, Washington, DC 20006

 

The Complete Guide to Men’s Suits: 21 Rules of Style

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Everything you need to know about suits, including what to look for when buying them, how to get them tailored, and the coats, shirts, ties, shoes, and watches to wear with them.

 

Rule #1
We’ve said it before and we’ll say it again: Fit is everything. Even the world’s most expensive suit will look bad if it isn’t tailored to the contours of your body.

Rule #2
Some think button-down collars are for casual wear only, but they can work great with dressier looks as well.

Rule #3
Polka dots are a great way to bring energy to a suit. Make sure they’re big enough to be recognizable, but not so large that they’re goofy.

Rule #4
A tried-and-true pattern like herringbone or glen plaid in a muted shade makes an impression without crossing into the realm of garishness.

Rule #5
Visible stitches around the edges of your lapels (called pick-stitching) aren’t necessarily a sign of a well-made garment anymore. However, they can be an attractive decorative flourish—as long as they’re subtle. No contrast stitching!

Rule #6
Some say you shouldn’t cut the stitching in your jacket pockets, because putting objects in them will cause your jacket to lose its shape. Don’t listen. It’s pointless to have nonfunctional pockets, and a concert ticket or a business-card holder certainly won’t do any damage.

Rule #7
Some think three-pieces are stodgy, but when the waistcoat is cut close to the body and hemmed to the belt line, you’ll look slim and modern.

Rule #8
Your tie bar should never be wider than your tie.

Rule #9
The difference between classic and cliché is often in the material. The timeless appeal of this gray suit begins with its super-luxe cashmere wool.

Rule #10
Always unfasten your jacket buttons when you sit. No exceptions.

Rule #11
Never fasten the bottom button of a double-breasted jacket (unless it has only a single row of buttons).

Rule #12
Avoid over-accessorizing. If you’re already wearing a pocket square and a tie bar, you’ll want to reconsider that clever lapel pin.

Rule #13
When wearing corduroy, steer clear of fusty wide wales, but don’t go so narrow that the material starts to look like velvet.

Rule #14
A dark, patterned pocket square provides a welcome visual anchor to a light-colored suit.

Rule #15
When it comes in a sandy tan rather than the usual rust or chocolate brown, this cold-weather suit gets a dose of sunny energy.

Rule #16
Save the bulky shock-resistant sports watch for the gym or your outdoor-adventure excursions. It has no place with a suit.

Rule #17
Save yourself some embarrassment: Always remove the stitching on the vents and the label on the left sleeve before wearing a new suit.

Rule #18
It’s fine to flip up the collar of a casual cotton jacket, but when you’re dressed more formally (say, in a black suit), you should always leave the collar down.

Rule #19
When you go without a tie, it’s best to keep your shirt collar on the smaller side.

Rule #20
Call attention to special suit material—like this marled wool—by keeping your accessories to a minimum.

Rule #21
Tailoring your pants a little bit short will add distinctiveness to your simple look.

We look forward to meeting you.

Differences Between “Off-the-Rack” Suits and Bespoke Suits

Differences Between “Off-the-Rack” Suits and Bespoke Suits

It takes less of a trained eye than you would think to tell if a suit is well-fitted or not. There are many things that set our bespoke suits aside from suits bought off of racks at department stores.

This should come as no surprise, either. Our highest-end of suits—our signature Purple Label, take in excess of 50 hours of hands-on work from a master tailor. There are a lot of things to consider when constructing a suit of this level.

–    Careful attention is paid to the detail of the entire canvas of the suit.

–    The lapels and collars are carefully shaped, crafted and contoured to the size and preferred style of the wearer.

–    Sleeves and buttonholes are constructed and hung by hand and made the appropriate size for the person that will be donning the attire.

Fabric

custom made suits in D.C.

With this careful attention to detail in mind, there are many little features that a master tailor will fine-tune for someone purchasing a bespoke suit. Here are a few things to keep in mind when deciding whether or not you want a truly custom tailored suit:

When someone purchases a suit from a standard designer or a rack in a department store, these cheaper versions of suits typically incorporate blends with synthetic fibers. Synthetic fibers are made with a cost efficiency in mind, and are not as strong and do not breathe as well as natural fibers. Many of these suits are being made by the hundreds in a period of a few hours. These fabrics are purchased at low prices, in bulk.

High-end suits will be made of quality natural fibers with intricate weaving processes. They typically feature fabrics like merino wool, cashmere, mohair, silks and high-quality cottons. You will never you see cheaper synthetic materials like polyester or viscose in a quality bespoke suit.

Custom Fitting and Tailoring

Good-Fit-vs-Bad-Fit

When a Master Tailor is custom-designing a suit for their client, they will note small details that work together to create a great garment.

Custom Tailors will give special attention to a suit’s shoulders, ensuring the fabric is cut for that person’s body type, carefully designing the shoulder slopes and posture and discerning the dimensions of the shoulder-pads.

Tailors will also carefully design the sleeves of a suit or customized shirt. Everything down to the button style is considered, not to mention the sleeves being custom-measured to the wearer’s arm lengths and hung perfectly to the pitch of their arms.

Another thing that bespoke suits are known for is the carefully constructed front-plate and midsection areas. The front chest area will be carefully sized to contour to the wearer’s body type. Additionally, the armholes, collar rolls and upper body/neck areas will be shaped to the wearer’s body type to avoid rolling, wrinkling and other fit problems. The hand-work in these areas causes the canvas pieces to mold to the wearer, making the suit fit perfectly and adding comfort for the wearer the more he wears it.

Quality bespoke suits are also tailored to the wearer, which means that each piece of fabric is carefully cut and stitched together. Preferences regarding lapels, pockets and vents are all carefully determined before the suit is constructed. These suits are durable and have a drastically longer lifespan than mass-produced or cheaply crafted garments. As mentioned, bespoke suits can be broken in like a good pair of shoes and will fit the wearer better over time.

Trims

bespoke suits in D.C. by mario rojas

The trims are some of the best benefits to wearing bespoke suits. Cheaper suits can have tell-tale shortcomings, including fake pockets, unnecessary or unusable button-holes, buttons made from plastic or other cheap materials, linings made from acetate or other cheap threads, and cheap zippers.

Good, responsible tailors know the importance of quality trim – zippers and buttons that accommodate the style and color of the suit and incorporate high-quality materials like semi-precious gems, horn or mother of pearl.   The linings and threading will be tight and from high-quality fabric that matches the rest of the garment. Finally, the pockets will never be fake, and can often be specially designed for accessories and other specific needs.

Individuality

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When you purchase a suit off of a rack at a store, without consulting an image consulting firm or a master tailor like ours, you are buying a suit that has probably been made multiple times for multiple different stores – in other words, you are getting a suit that is unoriginal, for lack of a better word. These suits have no style that sets them aside from other suits in that market.

When you get a bespoke suit or other custom garments from places like ours, you are getting a piece of attire that will make you stand out in a crowd or during job interviews.   The trims, style and cuts will be unique and the fabrics will have people asking questions about your garments.

For a suit that truly stands out in a crowd and hasn’t been done before, bespoke suits are the way to go.

 

Job Interview Coming Up? 4 Ways to Look and Feel Confident

Essential-job-interview-tips-medium

You’ve prepped your résumé and cover letter, contacted your references, and thought about your answers to common interview questions. Now, the best thing you can do to prepare for your job interview is to increase your confidence. Your assured appearance and demeanor will impress your interviewers. It will also put to rest any concerns they may have about hiring you.

Research shows that when you look more confident and act more confident, you’ll also feel more confident. Here’s how you can increase confidence from the outside in.

1. Get a Custom Suit or Shirt

the best custom clothiers in D.C.

Wearing professional clothes makes you look more secure and self-assured. It also helps employers better imagine you in powerful leadership roles.

To further enhance your confident appearance, consider a custom suit or clothes. Since everyone’s body type and frame is unique, it’s difficult to find a perfect fit at the store. Have a custom clothier evaluate your body type, take your measurements, and design a suit or shirt that’s perfect for you and your body.

You’ll look and feel like a million dollars in your new custom clothes, and you’ll portray that confidence to your interviewers.

2. Strike a Power Pose

Social psychologist Amy Cuddy recommends a practice called power posing before your interview. This practice involves standing in a confident posture for about two minutes. Power poses involve opening up your body rather than bringing it in. Try these power poses:

  • Stand straight with your hands on your hips.
  • Lean back in a chair with your legs on a desk and your arms crossed behind your head.
  • Lean forward on a desk and look forward, with your arms spread wide on the desk.

Cuddy found that these poses actually change hormone levels in your body. In her study, research subjects who struck these poses before an interview were more likely to be viewed favorably by the employer.

If you strike these poses, your brain will begin to align with your body and you’ll believe you’re powerful and capable. Plus, your interviewers will believe it, too.

3. Wear a Powerful Color

JobInterviewTies

According to color psychology, certain colors evoke feelings of boldness and power. Red commands attention and is a good choice if you want to appear confident and passionate. Purple is also a powerful color because it reminds people of royalty and distinction. Blue can be a good choice as well, since it symbolizes intelligence and strength.

Of course, the classic black or gray suit jacket is always a stylish look. Men could choose a tie or shirt in a power color, and women could choose a shirt or suit jacket in a power color. It can give you an extra boost of self-assurance during your interview.

4. Practice Confident Body Language During Interviews

Body-Language D.C. job interview

Just as you should strike power poses before the interview, you should also portray confident body language throughout the interview. Do a practice interview with a friend and use the following body language:

  • Stand straight with your head held high and shoulders back.
  • When you sit, lean back and put your arms on the armrests (leaning forward makes you look less confident).
  • Try interlacing your fingers and resting your elbows on the table in front of you.
  • Avoid fidgeting or nervous habits, such as tapping your feet.

Ask your friend to point out anything he or she notices that you could change about your body language.

Even if you have the right education and experience for a job, you need to show confidence to nail the interview. Use these tips and you’ll help convince your interviewers that you’re right for the job. If you need a custom suit or shirt, count on custom tailor Mario Rojas.